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Looking at using Ross track and turnouts on the next construction.  However, I dont like the space left between rails caused by the dimple in the pin. I understand why its there, but is there an easy alternative to the standard pin. Such as small bar stock, if so, does anyone have the size that would fit?

 

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Gargraves offers a connector, 910-4, that is a slip-fit between the rails.  It's often used when removing a section of track and installing a switch, operating track section, etc. or some other application where the use of track pins is very difficult.

 

I'm going to use them in lieu of track pins on the layout I'm planning for 2015--adjacent track sections can be butted against each other.

Options:

1. file/dremel/cut the nubby off

2. use hammer and block to slam the track together 

3. use standard pin, solder over the top of the pin

4. if you're going to make the joint that tight, cut the pin in half and just use half the pin

 

You can probably use a small rod, just start sticking the back of drill bits into the rail until you find the size that fits the best. 

Ross gives you pins with each track section, so I've always just taken the cheap solution to modify the pins they give you.

Thanks for the suggestions. Out of all of them, total removal and replacement seems to be the only workable option.  

Tapping them tight wont work like on Gargraves because the pin actually has a bULGe in the center, which is meant to prevent it from being pushed too far into the rail. Lionel old pins have a notch on the pin which gets crimped in place. How many of you know about the special pliers for this?

Any way, because we will be looking at 8 scale miles of track, replacing with bar stock seems like the option. 

I will report back when the proper size and material is found.

Not sure what your problem is. I tighten up the joints and smooth the inside edge with a file.  There is not much of a bump from the track pins.  

Have you bought it already, your first post implies no.  If not then Altas track with Ross switches may be a better route.  You can't just replace Gargraves rails with bar stock.

Dan

I filed off the bump for a flush fit.  As I recall, I believe this was necessary to achieve the advertised diameter (center-to-center.)

 

I believe the sharp-edged gap would certainly take its toll on traction tires and increase running noise.  Depending on how tight the curves are and proximity to a switch, it could trigger derailments.  MTH locomotives (at least the first ones made in Korea) have relatively "soft" wheels; I was concerned about flange wear too.

 

Filing off the bump was a pain in the butt!  I never had a problem keeping the pin centered in the joint even without the bump.  Yes I agree that smooth pins should be available for purchase to eliminate this non-value added effort.  Thanks for bringing this up and please share your solution when you find one.  -Ted

Sway,  I'm sorry I just don't see what your problem is. The bump is there in the GG track pins only to insure that equal amounts extend into the track when you put them together.  It is not intended to keep the tracks separate with a gap. My whole layout is made with Gargraves Track hammered together tight and trains run on it smooth as silk.  Since the pins are flat stock the "bump" is only side to side and does not affect the running surface of the track

.....

Dennis 

OK. So I was trying to mate the track like the old Lionel tubular with pins.  The Lionel required a little bit of push but the track heads came together.  On the Ross pins, both sections of track come together at the pressed bulge. But pushing alone wont join the two railheads. The bulge in the pin keeps them separated.

So now you guys aree telling me that I have to hammer the track sections together?

I tried lightly tapping the pin into the rail past the bulge and this allowed the rails to join railheads properly. But now there is a slight bulge in the railhead where the pins bulge is spreading it. This is normal?

I am so looking forward to hammering 2000 pins.

 

As mentioned in previous posts, the ears on the pins are to keep the pins even ended and to prevent them from being pushed to far into one track or another when assembling. As others have stated you can place a block of wood on the end and tap to close up the gap. With the exception of a little clickity-clack it will have no bearing on the way your trains run nor will it create any excess wear on wheel sets or traction tires.

FYI the pins used by Ross are purchased from us. Upon request we can provide pins without the ears.

 

Thank you for all the help and replies. I will discuss the best solution with the track crew and work with them.

This is all in preparation for a new MainLine layout at the Chicagoland Lionel RR Club in New Lenox., IL. Construction is expected to start in June 2016. This years summer projects are the installation of a lighting system and sound control.  Some of you will be out at our club in July during the convention.  I'll be there, look me up.

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