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Originally Posted by 86TA355SR:

Problem is the 'flange' for mounting to the boiler, not sure how to do that?

 

There is a method using styrene tubing that might be adaptable to metal. The dome is made from the usual straight-sided stock, and a washer shape is made and curved to fit the boiler and slide over the dome as a flange. A piece of small diameter tubing is formed to the diameter of the dome and attached to the flange, making a dome, flat flange and the small tubing as a fillet. Then the base is puttied, allowed to dry and filed to shape. The even-ness of the base curve is known when the small tubing starts to show through as a marker. Maybe this is do-able with brass, wire and soft solder?

Pics here at this link:http://tinyurl.com/nu6w3dj

 

Aaron,

 

I hear you, regarding a lot of work with few results. Kind of the nature of the beast when home fabricating. I finished my expansion links and am now re-doing my original piping on the boiler sides. Just was not quite satisfied. I think sometimes the first to third passes at something is just the learning curve.

 

Ron H 

Firewood, thank for the suggestion.  I'll see what I can do.
 
Originally Posted by Ron H:

...I think sometimes the first to third passes at something is just the learning curve.

 

Ron H 

Ron, 

I sure know what you mean.  A fabricator I am not, but I'm sticking at it!

 

The domes are wearing me out.  I decided to work on some other things until my brass tubing arrives.  Once it does, I'm going to cut a piece down the middle and then solder the straight piece into it. Should produce the look I want.  

 

I've given up trying to roll sheet brass into the shape I need.  I can't get it perfectly round and it look like hell from above if it is not. 

 

Here's my best effort:

 

IMG_6837

 

AFTER I got these made and soldered on, I realized a major error.  Not sure how, but I screwed up the shape on my 4th attempt at this and with that, I cracked a cold one and said the hell with it.  Sometimes it's best to sit it aside for a day or so and get a fresh idea.

 

 

IMG_6866

 

As you can see above, I made a nice dome for an FEF-3, which is cool if this was going to be a 3!  I was looking at FEF-3 photos and have no idea how my brain wasn't engaged prior to making this dome. 

 

I did manage to do this today:

 

Before:

 

IMG_6880

 

During:

 

 

IMG_6884

IMG_6885

IMG_6881

 

After:

 

IMG_6889

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Done until I get parts from PSC.  Also, I should have the brass tube this week, so I'll work on the domes again.

 

More to come.

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Last edited by 86TA355SR
Originally Posted by 86TA355SR:

AFTER I got these made and soldered on, I realized a major error.  Not sure how, but I screwed up the shape on my 4th attempt at this and with that, I cracked a cold one and said the hell with it.  Sometimes it's best to sit it aside for a day or so.

Don't get too discouraged.  The reward will be worth it.
Last edited by WITZ 41

Nice ash pan.  I sometimes do that with 1/8" square bar.

 

On the domes - I generally use half-hard brass sheet, and .020 is about the right thickness for getting curves bent perfectly.  Use a steel rod.  Put the joint on the straight side, back it up with a small piece of brass, and use the solder as body putty.

 

The flange is the easiest part - I promise.  When your dome is done, screw it on, with a piece of thick paper between it and the boiler, and mark the paper appropriately. Transfer that to .020 HH brass, and repeat.  You may find you do not need a fillet - it will be pretty realistic without it.  But if you do, as above, a small amount of body putty . . .

 

Don't try to solder the dome to the boiler.  That is a loser - you may need to adjust something later.  I use 2-56 cap screws, and an allen wrench goes through a small hole in the belly.  The screw can actually come through the top of the dome - you file it off before painting.

Aaron,

 

Whatever technique you use, I suggest you make a fixture jig to solder up the work. This was the only way I could put together the multi-piece Alco pilots I made.

 

Flat piece of pine with small nails on each side of flat and curved pieces to retain position and shape as you tack pieces together. The pieces need to be held tightly.

 

It's really pretty easy.

 

Ron H

bob2 and Ron H,

 

First, thanks for the compliments on the ash pan.

 

Thanks to both of your suggestions, I was able to get one dome shaped today.  I used a combination of techniques and I'm very happy with the end result.

 

Still shaping to match the boiler curvature but will post 'how I did it' pictures when I'm done.  Need to finish the flange also.

 

It's starting to come together...Excited.

Last edited by 86TA355SR

Aaron, I spent a few moments looking for brass, deep cup, freeze plugs online and realized that they are specialty applications and not like the old days where there was drawers of freeze plugs. But one site that I found had brass and copper "pieces", unfortunately from India. Nothing wrong with India mind you, just the hassle. Some of the "pieces" looked like common copper plumbing parts. Just like you can find at your local hardware store.  I know you are probably too far along on this project to benefit from this suggestion, but it might be helpful to others who are following this thread. 

David,

Thanks for the information.  Back in my days of engine building/drag racing, you could find those darn brass freeze plugs at every auto store in town!  Which is why I was so surprised when I couldn't find them anymore.  It would've saved me many hours of frustration and it was an excellent idea for a guy like me without a lathe.

 

The good thing about all that searching and frustration-I learned how to make domes myself and I'm confident now I can build about any type.  We'll see as I progress through different projects.  My method isn't the most time effective, but I get the job done.

 

Again, thank you for the great idea.  Should have dome pictures up tomorrow night, I ran out of solder so no pics tonight. 

Last edited by 86TA355SR

The domes are complete.  I used several different techniques, not shown in the photos to get the end result.

 

Using the brass tube from Online Metals, I cut a piece slightly taller than needed.  My big hands can't hold on to those little pieces and later I cut it down to correct dimensions (below).

 

IMG_6893

 

Here's how the the tube compared to the dome I was making, I couldn't keep the radius concentric on each end and kept making 'egg' shaped domes.  I'll try Bob's technique on the next project (below):

 

IMG_6894

 

I marked center OD of the tube and used tape to serve as a vertical cutting guide.  My saw quit so I used a razor saw...ugh.  After cutting the tube vertically, it 'relaxed' and was bigger than original (below).

 

IMG_6895

 

The brass sheet was the same width as my original tube diameter.  Hard to see in the picture, but I measured and scribed an equal distant line, equal to the tube radius on each end of the brass sheet. This aided in accurate placement of the tube and 'scaled' the dome to the correct length and width.  I used the Vise-a-grips to pull the tube back to the correct diameter for soldering (below).

 

IMG_6896

 

My 'high speed press' I use to hold parts:

 

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The straight section of the dome soldered in place:

 

IMG_6898

 

The other side:

 

IMG_6900

 

Cut dome from sheet and started rounding the corners:

 

IMG_6901

IMG_6902

 

Scribed a line around dome and marked with tape to get the correct height.  Cut dome:

 

IMG_6903

 

Found center of boiler/dome and marked them for reference:

 

IMG_6904

 

Here, I started to profile dome to boiler using a cutting tool, anyone notice I missed something important? 

 

IMG_6910

 

Started on smaller second dome:

 

IMG_6911

 

Profiled it and added the flange:

 

IMG_6912

IMG_6913

 

Rounded the edges of the flange:

 

IMG_6915

IMG_6916

 

Second dome installed:

 

IMG_6917

 

At this point, I was marveling at my work when I realized I forgot the flange on the first dome!

 

So, here's how I corrected it.  Using masking tape, I made a pattern and transferred it to the brass sheet.  I decided it would be difficult to make the flange in one piece and slide over the dome to fit, so I cut it in half.  Then cut out the marked section, filed to fit, and installed.

 

 

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The final dome/flanges:

 

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IMG_6924

 

Learned a lot and tried different techniques.  In the future, I hope to have a lathe to do the round domes.  Also, I won't forget the flange again, it was a lot of extra effort to make it that way, but well worth it.  A little filler at the dome/flange transition and it'll be done.

 

I'm very pleased with the results.  As Ron said, sometime attempts 3-5 are just practice runs!

 

Firewood, not sure you're still following along, but thanks for the article.  I've printed it out and spent time reading it.  The techniques can be used in brass also.  It should help when I'm ready to do a complete scratch built locomotive.  

 

Now on to the detail parts and stuff I'm really looking forward to building.

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Last edited by 86TA355SR

Double-check those flanges with some good prototype photos. There are good shots on page 111 and the back inside cover of Kratville's book.

 

The more I think about it, the more I would opt for solid brass on this model.  I built my sand dome the way you did, except I used a very thick top to be able to carve a radius between sides and top.  Boiler contour is the main problem, but is easily done with a new crosscut file and a sanding drum.  Then the attach is by a screw, greatly facilitating the addition, and trimming, of the flange.

 

Nice work.  I wouldn't even attempt doing a flange after the dome is attached - I don't have that kind of patience.

Dave,

Where do I buy dapping blocks?  Hardware store?

 

Though I've done a lot of model building in resins and plastic, brass/metal is all new.  I'm slowly building a tool collection that makes life easier, I think I could use these blocks on many more projects.  Would be a worthwhile investment.  Plus, I like tools! 

 

Not a lot of progress to report on the FEF.  No parts have arrived and family arrives tomorrow, so it'll be a week or two before I get back to work on it.

No, I've been busy with other things since the last update.

 

Weekends have been full with family and I haven't had time to do much.  I was hoping to start on the rods last week, but it didn't happen. Probably next week, everynight this week is full and next weekend is busy also. 

 

I'm just a popular guy everybody wants to hang out with

 

I'll let you know when I get back to work!

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