Skip to main content

 

 I would appreciate some input on an attempt to repair a MARX SP diesel. It has a motor shaft that spins free in the motor winding base, when you try to pull any cars with it. Little wear on the wheels, and track, decent metal, but played with condition, I think this began long ago, when fairly new, and it was just put away, forgotten for a few decades. So, bearings/gears/armature/etc. seem nice. Shaft too, just had a weak shaft fit from the beginning. Id like to try to remedy this on the cheap, so adhesives come to mind.

   I have exposed most of the shaft by pressing, but don't want to screw up the armature/windings, while pulling it 100% with a my "risky rig". Exposed enough shaft I could Dremel a 1/4"-3/8" long rough area, small flat, or parallel slot, into the shaft, allowing an adhesive to "ride in the flat" then grab hold of the winding body, once pressed back in. Windings base is layered steel plate 90° to the shaft

  With my "rig" I cannot drive the long thin shaft out 100% in order to replace(plus that costs $), or to apply some adhesive inside the shafts hole..at least not without some other possible damage.

  .

 Which adhesive do think would penetrate plate layers a bit once the shaft is pressed? I'm pretty confident I can keep wetter adhesives out of the bearing during the press. Set time could be an issue with needing to press.

  My thoughts- JB weld-I worry it will lack penetration, and spin soon also. Red Lock-tite -If it gets hot*, it gets gummy. That will help hold a torqued nut/bolt, but a shaft? Bearing retainer, or penetrating/green? No idea what a heat does to these, I've only used them on large items never seeing much heat. Super glue- Brittle, but my best guess. Pressing in time is one issue. Liquid for penetration, or gel for a better filling of gaps.

 

*I have gotten heat blisters from handling my childhood engines after working them hard for hours at times, I consider that pretty hot, and semi-normal so I kinda worry about heat. Go ahead, and try to talk me out of the thought, I just might listen.)

 

For those read the post title, and deep down inside, were really hoping to see something else posted here.

 

shaftroundtreeshaftjackson

Yes! Thanks for asking Mr Jackson, but I think I'll wait for O-Gauge Forum input.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • shaftjackson
  • shaftroundtree
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

  Thank you for the offer franktrain, I do appreciate it, and may try and take you up on that soon. But I would like to attempt a repair just for the sake of trying too! I can be silly like that. But I do hope the offer will remain open, for a bit anyhow.

 

 Back to the motor... Yes, its a common, steam drive wheel version mounted under the diesel, on the front end. Only have the crummy camera ready, someone has borrowed/left with the other USB cord. Let me know if this all isn't good enough info for a match up.

O.D. of main body- 1.20-1.25"dia,(.65 aprx depth)

brush contact pads- .25 brush path width, (.810 o.d. x .310 i.d.) 

shaft-.121 dia.x 1.25"long(aprx)

10 tooth gear - .30"o.d. x .125"deep

slotted bearing- .308 dia x .08(aprx) to flange, and a .210 tall x .375 dia flange (.218= total deep+high.) slot=.41 deep x .053 wide

Again, Thank You franktrain!

Snapshot_20141120

Snapshot_20141120_1

Attachments

Images (2)
  • Snapshot_20141120
  • Snapshot_20141120_1

Close to out, but stops dead. Wants a lot of pressure to come out, too much. That is almost as deep as my puller goes. Enough I fear the brittle plastic and fiber insulators cracking, or winding damage should something slip. Or bending the shaft during a full length re-press. I'm not inexperienced with small motors, or being super over cautious. It really just doesn't want to budge from here going off, going on again is a breeze). 

I thought of a peening/staking along the shaft, but staking mid length, without bending the shaft at all? Maybe if my "beating vise" had new, un-rounded jaw edges. These are reasons I'm thinking of an adhesive of some kind over traditional means. And the knurling by plier may bend/warp, grinding in a rough with a dremel I though would be ok. My real CA fear is set time. If the shaft hangs up or I'm slow, then Im cooked The thought of acetone near winding lacquer concerns me.

Sooo tired (for once..) Goodnight! Thanks again.      

TrainLarry, I assume you mean the very thin liquid but hard set stuff. I used some to build competitive balsa gliders with as a kid. If not, well..claim it anyhow do I like the idea. But haven't noticed any in years. Seems most are rubbery now, need to go on too thick. I think those would dig out, chipping while pressing the shaft, even JB.

Wonder about electrical lacquer? Some seems thicker than lacquer paints. I do have some to let dry & inspect.

 

  I'm thinking I'm to go ahead with grinding & roughing things up more. I did try roughing with needle vice grips & staking, but its a very hard (stainless?) steel shaft. Cant be hit hard enough to inflict damage and still call it a "controlled blow". Pliers didn't do enough to last more than about 15min(no glue). Tomorrow I'll use lacquer, or gel CA from the corner $1 store. A pal said the brand is a tiny bit thinner than normal, more liquidy.

  I'll let you all know how it all goes.

 

 franktrain,

Well that does look familiar! I'm a little more gung ho seeing this. Now I have a backup plan too. Sending some info. You can wait, and see the results, or send it now if you just wanted a good home for it. Hopefully I can figure out a little something you might like too! I love low pressure trading. If you help further I'll insist ....

 

  There is another issue I haven't mentioned, I just forgot, wasn't too worried.

 I will need to replace at least two drivers that chipped out "before my eyes" in turnouts during test running. They likely would have chipped out when pulled for the armature removal anyhow. Bright side was I didn't have to pull the wheels to get the armature out. I didn't mention it because I just wanted to take care of "does it run" first. I was going to post a wanted ad for some good used drivers, or look into new ones.

 Suggestions on finding some?

 

Come to think of it, the way & where, those wheels chipped out, may have been weak spots from attempts to fish & force the armature out by the former owner! The chips lined up perfect for its removal. Another I worked on many years ago for a buddy, I had to pull wheels to remove it.

 

   Also, I have thoughts to return this to the young guy(19)(orig. owners grandson) that brought it to me, track transformer, signs, and all. If he shows any interest in it once it runs. He does run the trains here sometimes while waiting on my roommate, is a natural tinkerer, built scale models as a kid, etc..

Him and his girl are on their own & planning their 2cnd tree shopping together in two weeks. She kinda likes them too, but wont run them herself (I have a feeling its her over-respecting my belongings). 

I.E.- this train just might become rail-hobby bait!

   

 Well, I did grind a flat, use CA glue, checked brushes(like new, slot still on each end) and reassemble it. Did it all the night before Thanksgiving. On Turkey Day, It ran great for about an 1hr 15 min. then the shaft spun. I found and replaced one wheel, but as it ran the other non gear wheel fell apart some too. It must have been dropped.

 Today the mailman was 8hrs early. And I found a little brown box* from franktrain waiting for me, as I braved the cold bare foot, and in boxers, investigated the unusual early morning noise. Twenty min. later, I was testing. It started buzzing but didn't move. Reversed it. Another buzz, that's it. I gave it a push and cranked the #1033 transformer to max voltage. She moaned, growled, and slowly moved off, laboring, but moving.

 After the fourth lap, it began to gain speed more progressively with each additional lap, until I had to lower voltage to keep from derailing her. The brushes finally seated well. I grinned, put the dummy engine, and cars behind her for a load test, turned on the stereo, and grabbed the camera.(4min.)   

*The contents of the little brown box was not limited to a FREE armature. Franktrain also picked up on the fact I liked old air cooled VW's, and sent me a vintage VW key too. You often got one plain set, and a nice one. This is the nicer steel one. Its for a pre-64, a type 3 sedan, a glove box, bonnet(hood), or engine bay lock. I haven't really checked the groves patterns yet, Im going on eyeballing the length now(any help Frank?). The kind with the logo hollowed out in the finger grasping area. It will be added to my small collection of harder to find, new from the dealership only, steel keys". All of them just waiting on worthy owners if you know of an "old stock only" restoration. AC-VW folk tend to love old stock even if its used (-vs- new re-pops. Even good ones) We wave, and honk at each other, and I have never had an on road problem that didn't stop another VW fan to help me. Lets see you do that in a little Chevy .  

Thank you again Franktrain! I'm in your debt, cant wait to return the favor .  

Attachments

Videos (1)
marxspaapho
Last edited by Adriatic

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×