Looking to figure out the simplest, easiest and most affordable way to weather a car. Any ideas? I'd like to try this within the next few days and need a list of what to purchase at the store. Thank you
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Just remember the simplest method will probably not yeild the best results. There are very few short-cuts in life that are rewarding.
Originally Posted by Bingo player:
Looking to figure out the simplest, easiest and most affordable way to weather a car. Any ideas? I'd like to try this within the next few days and need a list of what to purchase at the store. Thank you
If by "car" you are referring to vehicles, what I do is:
First: spray generously with a matte finish. (Put tape temporarily over the windows unless you deliberately want them to be grimy and cloudy looking.
Second: I use tubes of acrylic paints in a whole array of colors, like Burnt Sienna; Raw Umber, etc. and have them all arranged at my fingertips for easy use.
Third: With a tiny brush, I dab layer upon layer upon layer, sometimes as many as eleven, depending on how severely aged and weathered and worn I want the final result to be. There are powders I use, also, atop the paint.
If you are asking about RR cars, like box cars or aged passenger coaches, though I have done a few, I suggest you ask SIRT, who to me is the boss in that regard.
FrankM
Attachments
Images (5)
Dry brushing is the easiest to do for technique (due to how it builds up and you can see mistakes before they get too bad) and once you get okay at it, you can get pretty good results. But even then, it takes a while per car...
Using dry brush though and powders, is that permanent? Do the powders rub off?
Originally Posted by Bingo player:
Using dry brush though and powders, is that permanent?
No.
Do the powders rub off?
Yes, unless you overspray the completed job with some sort of dull-coat, which is best accomplished with a good airbrush.
Originally Posted by Bingo player:
Looking to figure out the simplest, easiest and most affordable way to weather a car.
Box it up and send it to SIRT!
Frank, thanks for your informative reply; hope SIRT will do likewise.
Originally Posted by Moonson:
If by "car" you are referring to vehicles, what I do is:
First: spray generously with a matte finish. (Put tape temporarily over the windows unless you deliberately want them to be grimy and cloudy looking.
Second: I use tubes of acrylic paints in a whole array of colors, like Burnt Sienna; Raw Umber, etc. and have them all arranged at my fingertips for easy use.
Third: With a tiny brush, I dab layer upon layer upon layer, sometimes as many as eleven, depending on how severely aged and weathered and worn I want the final result to be. There are powders I use, also, atop the paint.
If you are asking about RR cars, like box cars or aged passenger coaches, though I have done a few, I suggest you ask SIRT, who to me is the boss in that regard.
"Looking to figure out the simplest, easiest and most affordable way to weather a car. Any ideas? I'd like to try this within the next few days and need a list of what to purchase at the store. Thank you"
The very simplest way I know is to airbrush a light coat of PollyScale rust to fade the finish . If one doesn't have an airbrush the easiest way is probably to buy a spray can of dullcoat or other flat clear finish and spray the car to kill the gloss ,then buy some cheap acrylic paints in rust, grime, soot, dirt, etc. colors and apply them as a wash with a fairly wide soft brush. Find a photo of the kind of car you are doing and try to figure out what color the weathering and rust on it really is then try to copy it. After the initial washes to fade and weather more detailed areas can be worked on with smaller brushes and less dilute paint. A final application of powdered chalks can help to blend the paint work together.....DaveB
My weathering is often done using baby powder applied with a women's make up brush. Its more like adding some dirt rather than weathering but it adds some character. Also use artists chalks to add rust effect and highlight areas. Its not at al permanent but it also doesn't destroy the value of the item being weathered or dirtied!
I've seen guys use spray cans....but yet to try as I like my airbrush method.
You have to 'bounce' the spray off a surface and onto the car. This defuses the spray and lightens it. They use a light gray and a light sandy colors.
A $10 airbrush works better for me....but each hs own.
You'll get 1000 different answers to this question and there is no right or wrong answer. There is bad weathering though, so remember that a little goes a long way. A simple spray of dull cote and/or a wash will make a huge improvement over the shiny toy train look. Do a search on YouTube.... there is a ton of videos out there... some very good, and some ...not so good. Read, watch, and develope your own techniques and methods.
All very good tips here. you will have to develop your own technique after trying. Some things i have learned:
An initial dull cote or wash to fade accomplishes most of the weathering effect especially if you are a runner. It is permanent and will hold up to handling.
Chalks look great but will come off with handling unless sealed with dullcote. Powders have an adhesive and stick better.
Don't forget the trucks and couplers. You can sprinkle powder or baking soda to build up the rusty effect.
Oil paints are permanent but give the best 3d effect and can be made to create rusty streaks with thinner.
The biggest mistake, learned the hard way, is too much weathering.
Practice on something that is of little or no value.
Look at pictures of what you are trying to do and it will be an excellent guide.
Good Luck
Ray
