Skip to main content

A couple of years ago on this forum, there was a lot of discussion about changing out the "anaconda" tether on MTH Premiere locomotives for one that just came straight out from the tender and connected to the locomotive without angling up. There was a specific tether part from MTH that guys were using to make the change. Did anyone make that change? Have pictures of how it came out? Have the part number for the tether?

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I have done a few "regular" steam locomotive models, as it will NOT work on the articulated versions (must be some sort of MUX board inside the boiler). The key to the modification is enlarging the hole in the front of the tender that the new, straight tether, has to pass through, otherwise the engine & tender do NOT negotiate curves very well. Also, I found a few models where the tender deck height didn't properly match the female receptacle, and made the new straight tether bend downward too much.

 

The MTH part number for a "straight tether"  is  BC-2100070, according to my old notes. 

 

 

Diesel Harnesses

10 pin flat, PS2    BC-2100033    B unit to Lead A unit, ref. F-3 20-2307-1
10 pin flat, PS2    BC-2100035    Trailing A to B unit, ref. F-3 20-2307-1
10 pin flat, PS2, universal    BC-2000000    B-unit to Lead A unit
10 pin flat, PS2 (B unit pass thru)    BC-2100070    B-unit pass thru harness
4 pin, Original Proto,     BC-0000011    pass through for Powered F-3 B unit
4 pin, Original Proto,     BC-0000014    Lead F-3 A unit to Dummy B unit
4 pin, Original Proto,     BC-0000013    Dummy F-3 B unit, connects A units


Steamer Harnesses

PS2 & LocoSound, 10 pin    BC-1000002    Universal type
PS2 Steam, 10 pin to 10 pin, universal 10"    BC-0000217    angle 10 pin to straight 10 pin

Do not use diesel harness as a direct replacement for steam, they are not internally wired the same.  Your motor leads are in a different pin connection.

 

The External harness Pete mentioned is the best method to go for a straight plug.

 

Diesels should only be used for upgrades where your willing to resolder wire connections on the engine side PCB.  G

When I spoke to Midge she mentioned the diesel tethers use different color wires. For me that would not have been a problem as I make my own engine connectors and use whatever wire matches but I thought it be desirable to have the option to use either the straight or right angle connectors.

I suspect the diesel tethers would cost less with their single connectors. Then you could just hook them up to the engine with the shell off and use an ohmmeter to determine what color wire on the tether goes to what color in the steam engine.

 

Pete

Last edited by Norton

I did this on an Imperial Railking Big Boy and I love it.

I did have to slot the front of the Die Cast tender and that was some finicky work for the Dremel tool. Fortunately there is a well in the front of the tender that hides the slot nicely. It no longer handles O-31 but it runs on everything else and it always looked horrible on O-31 anyway, the cab hanging completely outside the rails on the O-31 curves!

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×