Talk to me about lift bridges...

Just to narrow the scope a bit, the 313 Bascule bridge wouldn't work well.  The span isn't nearly wide enough to squeeze through.  Even if you put 2 together they still don't open high enough to make passage easy.  45 degree angle IIRC.

 

With the 213 style, the sky is the limit.  As long as you build sturdy the span can be increased to whatever suits.  I'd be tempted to build custom rather than building the layout around one of Lionel's.

 

If space is no issue and your craftsman skills are up to it, consider a swing bridge too.

 

Bruce

I used a Lionel lift bridge to cross an imaginary water way.

 

You can sit on a rolling piano stool and roll under the raised bridge.

 

The real purpose of the bridge was to open up an access within an 8'6" X 9' otherwise solid section of bench work.

 

Construction shots:

 

 

 

 

Do you have room for this?

Be forewarned about the 1992 #12782 - all of these are prone to rocker switches on the controllers going bad. Either you have to put in a new switch or jump it completely and make an external switch. I'm asking a guy at Greenbrook Electronics to help me do either, since I don't have the experience or steady hand.

 

That being said, both of Lionel's lift bridges are really impressive to look at and are mostly reliable in operation. The #12782 especially when the sounds go on when the bridge is in operation.

For your stated purposes I would suggest you consider a automated Mianne lift bridge.  No sitting, just walk through (under) it.

 

On a previous build I did a four step down - walk two feet - four step back up in a concrete floor.  I got the idea from the Cherry Valley Model RR club in Merchantvill NJ.

Yikes Clem,that is a great idea.  Never saw that before.

this one works great, but very costly

John, that's an awesome bridge. What is its origin? I have the vintage '91 Lionel 12-782 and it's nice for what it is.

I bought a Lionel lift bridge, don't! I spend two nights trying to get it work now it its sitting under the table. I have a 3 foot path between tables, and I listen to the notch 6 podcast and Lionel is coming out with a lift out bridge modeled on their swing bridge. I have the swing bridge on the layout and the detail is very good. So I looked to preorder one and the price was 230, so I checked eBay for a swing bridge and found one for 200. I brought it and took it apart and now use it for my lift off bridge instead of having to duck under

Here it is with the bridge out

For your stated purposes I would suggest you consider a automated Mianne lift bridge.  No sitting, just walk through (under) it.

Tom the way you're using your lift bridge on the 2-rail layout illustrates one of the possibilities I had in mind.  I will check out the Mianne stuff too.  I'm not going to build steps down; to do that I would have to give the rest of the room a raised floor, and I'm not about to do that.

 

Clem your "swing out" section is very cool; I might be able to do the same thing.  No prototypical operating interest with this approach, but very convenient!!

 

rboater, which Lionel bridge did you buy, and what kind of problems did you have with it?

Does anyone know the name of the gentleman in the Orange hall, or where I can find a map of dealer tables?  Thanks!!

I don't know if it's the same person you are thinking about, but AAA Precision Turntables showed a prototype of a huge lift bridge that would fit your purpose at York a few years ago (I did not notice if they were there this April or not).  These were specifically intended to have enough vertical movement to allow passing under.  I want to guess the bridge is at least 4-5 feet tall at the towers and the span was probably a few feet wide (so you need to make sure your ceiling is high enough depending on how high your tabletop is).

 

While I believe the AAA units to be very well engineered (I do not have one but had some good discussions with the owner and saw the demo at York), they are also on the expensive side.  Think more than a good computer or 2, but less than a small car.

 

The Lionel ones really don't move enough vertically to have an effect unless your table is high enough that you need a ladder to see it when not walking under the bridge.

 

Also, as stated, Lionel Bascules are also not a good candidate because 1) they only open to about 45 degrees, 2) they are only 20" wide even with the part that stays stationary on the table surface, and 3) if you put 2 together, they need a support in the middle! (not a criticism, but reality).

 

Your best bet may be the Mianne benchwork lift unit mentioned above, as it was specifically intended for walk-under purposes.  Or build something from scratch.  I seem to recall Jim Barrett did a Backshop video on making a swing up bridge quite a while back.

 

-Dave

 

 

Lift-out bridge. 

Atlas Pratt Truss Bridge, (2) track.

I don't care for extra tall lift bridges or waiting for them. Lift up, drop down sections can get heavy quick and hurt you in various ways. They also get stressed, sooner or later it happens. You open it too fast, bump it, or close it wrong, or on something(like fingers) or slam it with a bump or slip.

 These truss bridges that seem to be coming out of the woodwork look good and look light. On the new "Erics Trains" You Tube video he had one on hinges that seemed sturdy enough. And the one above looks good too.

But if you use plywood & a frame, for solid ground, look out!

 

But, "having used them all" including bascules. I would want something that swings out like a door, just like Clem showed us . I think when I'm 90 that's the one I'll need. 

Hi Ted,

check out SandJam's post and video on the Mianne  lift product that he recently installed.

 

if it's within your budget for the Mianne order, it's the perfect solution.

No one has mentioned this so far, but of the two Lionel bridges, the 12782 will allow scale-height cars to pass internally while the "213" variety will limit what you run. It's internal clearance appears close to the original 313's.

FWIW, I had the 12782 at for several years and had no issues with it. That said, I have heard of some issues with the plastic gears and the control box power rocker switch

Len, that was made by Bernie Winkler. mostly aluminum with dual motors

Ted,

I'm working on the same basic design as you. After much research, I'm 99% sure I'm going with Jim Ballman of Stainless Unlimited, www.stainlessunilimited.com

He can custom-build pretty much anything; I've spoken with him several times and he's a great guy to deal with--very helpful.

 

The gentleman in the Orange Hall at York is Vernon Peachey, www.modelrrlayouts.com

I also had a good conversation with him in April, but at this point Jim Ballman has spent so much time helping me with the design of my bridge that I feel (for lack of a better word) obligated to do business with him.

 

I've seen both of these bridges in action, and they both appear to work well for what we're trying to accomplish. Hope this helps--keep me posted.

 

John

Hi In my last layout I had I swing up bridge and a lift out section for the furnace room. The MTH Bridge proved to be wide enough for everyday use. I made a platform for the bride to be screwed into out of straight grain pine strips. The strips were glue and nail together like a ladder so you could still see through the bridges decking. The sides you can see had a dado in them as to look like a steel I-beam. I attached the “ladder” to a piece of ¾ pine to which a piano hinge was mortised into. The other side of the hinge is mortised into a longer 3/4 piece of pine that is longer than the bridge side so you can clamp it to the layout than once set in the right position screw it into the table.

 The hinge pin must be at the top of the rails so you need to remove some of the hinge area for the track. With the pivot point at the rail top the bridge can be swung past vertical. I placed small blocks to stop the bridge from going too far. The other end of the “ladder” when down fits into three pieces of pine that captures it, some lead weights were added to collapse the kill switch. Both ends have a switch that kills power to the center rail and also on one side turns a track switch to the other branch.

 The lift out section was made of ¾ inch plywood for stability. I had the plywood top set out far enough to lay on some 2x3 blocks again using clamps to hold the blocks until the section was level with table than screwing the blocks into the table. To hold the lift out section in place I drilled four holes which I placed wood screw into. After removing the screw I remove the lift out section and cut off the heads of the screws once screwed into the 2X3 blocks.  I used the next sized drill to make the lift out section holes slightly larger, work out great, rail heads were always on “track”.  See post photos of above, regards Rob

Hi Ted

 

I brought the Lionel swing bridge # 6-24111 and I took the base off and used the bases for connection track power. If you look at the pier bases they provide track power to the pier with out any additional wiring.  I got the idea from the new fastrack bridge available for pre order.  Listening to Notch 6 podcast and hearing Mike Regan explain the new fastrack bridge (picture attached) I came up with the idea of using the swingbridge and removing the bottom. 

Here is the specs on the new bridge:

Each bridge superstructure features detailed lattice work inside, exquisite molded-in exterior rivet details and simulated wood decking. Each bridge spans a full 30” in length and can be lifted off the piers to function as a “lift out” for a walk-through aisle in your layout. Each bridge comes with a pair of modular bridge piers.

 

On some Atlas lift out bridges I used a 12 mm Russian Birch sub frame due to the very fragile nature of the bridge.

 

Anderson power poles to make sure and quick connections.

 

Dowel pins provide repeatable alignment.  Double paired cabinet magnets assure continued contact.

 

Detail views in xtra thumb nail photos.

 

 On scenery lift out bridges I use the same M.O.

 

 

 

 

 

Just for kicks I measured the old lift up sections area, as that layout is shelf space now.

 

48"long x 58" wide

First build was too narrow to suit us 48"x 48"

 

If Terry Johnson (TonkaNut) has his cyber-ears on, perhaps he can show us a photo or video clip of his A-W-E-S-O-M-E functioning lift bridge he built...from a bazillion erector set parts!!  Or, if you have OGR's Great Layout Adventures #7 in which his layout is one of three celebrated you'll get a glimpse...and audio/visual experience...of more than that!!!  Terry's lift bridge is simply something else to behold!

 

KD

I had two levels of track going across my access isle. The tracks were not parallel to each other. I used a lift bridge hinged at one end for the upper track, and a swing bridge, that opens like a door, on the lower track. Video shows the movements. I believe you can avoid the duck under problem for most track layouts.

 

Both of these were based on Forum member designs, modified for my space and track plan. Easier to do than I imagined. The lift up bridge was based on an OGR Backshop CD.

 

Hope this helps: Joe K

My website section on Runner and Guest Access Bridges starring the Atlas 3-Rail Pratt Truss Bridge with added Lift Assist might be helpful.  I had to use several different types of bridges in my Run Room.

 

Double Track Atlas 3-Rail Pratt Truss Bridge with Lift Assist

 

Here is the LINK to TonkaNut's thread with pix of his lift bridge alluded to by DKDKRD.