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Marty, I am fairly new to MTH proto sounds.  I have a small track running around my spare room. I have a RS-27 diesel with proto 2. I am operating with Railking controller and a 100 watt brick. I am able to activate FYR,proto couplers, bell, horn. my problem is it will run forward for a short time and quits,pushing direction button it will move forward again without cycling to neutral and reverse and will continue to stop. It runs in reverse as long as I want. Trying reset to default. When I activate only get one horn blast. any ideas or help. Respectfully Roy

G, I tried to run it on a ZW 275 lionel and a lionel CW 80 also and does the same thing. I removed the body and removed motors and motors are free and trucks are also free. cleaned and lubed both and cleaned track and after 10 times around track started same thing. Just stops with lights on and push direction button and run a few feet. Strange that pushing direction button it goes forward and not into reverse or n.  The two brass strips on the PC board get hot and if I cool them it will run 10 circuts again. I cooled it again and have had no problems with it running. 3X I have run it 35 laps and no problems. Reinstalled body and have not had time to run it again. I cant explain anything. Got any ideas? also note it does not really run fast. I have a large collection of lionel pre war,post war, 80s 90s and present day also a lion chief and MTH large Amtrak P4 ,Santa Fe Railking and D&W Alco all with proto sound and all work great, Thanks for help. I am working on learning to run DCC.   Roy

You have a bad motor or two.  Look at winding in motor through slot.  You are over heating the PS-2 5V motor fet heat sinks and it is dropping motors off line.  Also running slow means the motors are bad if no binding.  If you had an amp meter on the circuit you would probably see the high current.  I would stop running it and check the motors.  They are $25ea, if you blow the board your up around $250 to fix board and that is with a discount.  Plus you still have $25 ea for motors, which means new train, unless your sentimental to this one.  G

G,  I removed the body and set chassis on stand, applied 14 volts to chassis and ran forward. I had 6 volts ac at the motors [both]. cut white wires to motors and ck ma and had 150 on front motor and 160 on rear motor.  checked armature windings and do not see any discoloration. What is your thoughts as I do not know the specs for anything. Thanks much Roy

 

Roy O posted:

G,  I removed the body and set chassis on stand, applied 14 volts to chassis and ran forward. I had 6 volts ac at the motors [both]. cut white wires to motors and ck ma and had 150 on front motor and 160 on rear motor.  checked armature windings and do not see any discoloration. What is your thoughts as I do not know the specs for anything. Thanks much Roy

 

Motors get DC. Not AC. Be careful testing and DC ground is different than AC Ground on MTH.  Hard to say what is going on at this point.  Best to get to tech who can test board out of engine and go from there.  G

G I know you are correct I always thought can motors are dc my fluke meter would only read motor voltage running in ac . need to try another meter or I did not read properly.   Just getting old and should know better.  as I spent most of my automotive tech repairing fuel injection systems.  Retired now. Have MTH dealer in Daytona area [roundhouse}  with the hurricane coming this weekend who  knows,  thanks  Roy   I love to try to do my own repairs but I am in a totally new area.

It is pulse power so that may be why.  If you have a DC transformer a better test would be to disconnect motors and power up and what starting voltage and current.  Taking a high current unloaded, or high starting voltage can indicate a motor fault/short.   Of course, may have a board issue too.  I have seen that, but is much more rare were it runs as you state.  G

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