Skip to main content

About 10 years ago I starting taking a casual interest in the Colorado Midland.

 

This is a Rugged Rails Santa Fe caboose I painted and lettered way back when:

Worked fine until I started doing some research and discovered just about everything is wrong with it except the color.

 

Awhile later MTH came out with this:

I was happy with it at the time, but then I started noticing the lack of detail, and the strange things that stick out on the ends.

 

A couple years ago I was given a Labelle kit for Christmas. Opened it up, looked through the pile of twigs, and put it away. Finally I built it, then another, and another. I then purchased a book about the Colorado Midland on-line that had lots of pictures. Between the kit's and the reference book, I could now start building more prototypical cars. This is a LaBelle gondola. Kadee couplers and Athearn trucks:

 

My latest kit was a Ye Olde Huff-n-Puff boxcar. It uses Lionel arch-bar trucks with a Kadee on one end, and the stock Lionel coupler on the other:

Comparing it the MTH boxcar pictured above, well, there just isn't a comparision...

 

Finally, the topic in the title. The above pictured caboose looked a little different than this:

 

So, I figured I had the measurements, had a spare Labelle flatcar which is becoming the chassis, and some on-line resources to purchase supplies from, why not try and build my own? This is as far as I've gotten so far. It's not as easy as I thought it would be, and is taking a long time to build, but it's getting there. It'll have Kadee's, Wiseman archbar trucks, Grant Line doors and windows, Clover House dry transfers, Weaver scale-coat paint, and various other odds and ends found on-line. Trying to figure out a way to light it right now. A couple pictures of the work in progress:

 

 

My photo taking helper:

 

Lastly, where the magic happens, or isn't happening right now. Due for a little clean-up before I can go any further...

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

"Trying to figure out a way to light it right now."

 

....I have a suggestion.  I used this combination/technique on a Quality Craft B&O caboose I built last year.

 

I decided to ditch the idea of picking up power from the track (O3R) and go with battery power.   Adding that third rail pickup to an apporpriate set of O2R trucks (work fine on Gargraves/Ross track) for this model was not an easy thing to work through.  Also, I decided that my primary lighting focus would be on the marker lights, rather than cabin lighting.  The latter would've led me to interior detailing....something that was not a priority for a kit-built car at this time.  I felt that well lit marker lights would give me the best night running effect, anyway.

 

So, I started with an Evans Design item...Walthers item 266-3vFRED.  Here's the link...

 

3VFRED Link

 

The essential features of this item for me were the battery clip and the in-line on-off switch.  (BTW, the on-off switch does not show up well or at all in the link photo.  It's white in color.  Against the white background of the photo it doesn't show!!  It's located between the two black connection points in the center of the photo.)

 

The switch is a push on-push off button.  I mounted mine to extend through the midpoint of the floor near one side.

 

I clipped off the red 1.8mm LED, of course.  In its place I attached the leads to a set of Tomar marker lights...

 

Marker Light Link

 

This marker light set has some other components, such as a diode rectifier, but I saved them for a future job.  The important items were the pre-wired lights with nano LED's that operate at the 3volt level of the Evans Design harness.

 

Long story short, the lighting/circuit works really well.  Of course, it has a couple concessions to the more traditional 3-rail pickup.  First, you have to manually actuate the light switch....not a biggie for me.  Besides, it offered a secondary benefit!...I can display the caboose on a shelf and power up the marker lights for added effect in a darkened room without having to have a powered display track!

 

The second concession is the battery.  Talking with Tomar, the CR2032 battery should last a long time, even powering the two nano LEDs.  But it will run down eventually...especially if I forget to turn the lights off when done!!!  So you'll have to face getting into the car to replace the battery.  On my QC caboose, I made one whole side removable, held on with six 3/16" dia. Neodymium magnets.  Works great.  But there's probably dozens of ways to deal with this issue.  More creativity.

 

Anyway, that's how I dealt with the lighting issue.  If you really wanted cabin lighting in addition to....or instead of...marker lights, I suppose you could experiment with the Evans harness/battery/switch arrangement further. 

 

Just a suggestion....FWIW, always.

 

KD

 

Last edited by dkdkrd

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×