Tmcc engine won't run(2nd Update)Engine operating again(2nd Video Added)

Greg,  That is an LCRU and RS 2.5 platform.  Since sounds work, you only need the LCRU 2 which is the equivalent of a R2LC and Motor driver combined.  This was the early version of TMCC.  Yes the cam is the speed sensor,  it triggers the cherry switch and controls the rev for diesels.

 

Not sure why the lights went out, unless it needs a reset.

 

If your not comfortable disassembling to this level I can look at repairing or replacing your LCRU.  I have them in stock.

 

If the cam is cracked but still rotates properly, just a little super glue to seal the crack and leave it alone.   G

The speaker on my Custom 1 recently went bad.  It is now all  full of static.  Fortunately I have a speaker and have been meaning to swap it out.  The sounds on these engines are a blast to play around with.  Good luck with yours.

GGG, how is a reset done. I searched on here and found nothing that made sense. The only thing I got to run this engine is DCS. so I don't know if I need a Cab1 remote. I'm pretty sure I will send this to you. I could do the repair. If it was any other engine with no special sounds I would do it. I just don't want something to happen with the sounds.

 

William, it is a unique engine. I actually like the cars with the exception of the observation car that come with this more than the engine.

You do have a command base correct?  I am assuming a motor triac got damaged.  Either way we can get it repaired.  You can reprogram the id #, and use this:

 

5 for strobe and 6 for cab light.

 

Reprogramming LCRU circuit boards to restore features

STEP 1:

 

Move switch on locomotive from

run to program.

STEP 2:

 

Turn on Command Base.

STEP 3:

 

Place locomotive on track, then

turn on power to track.

STEP 4:

 

Press “ENG” then input locomotive’s

ID#. Press “SET”

STEP 5:

 

Press “ENG”, then the ID#,

“AUX1”, then press

 

a number closest to

your locomotive type. (see list for engine

types)

STEP 6:

 

Turn off power to track, wait ten

seconds.

STEP 7:

 

Remove locomotive from track,

move switch from program to run.

STEP 8:

 

Place locomotive back on track,

turn power on to track.

STEP 9:

 

Press “ENG” and ID#, then operate

as normal.

PROGRAM CODE FOR OTHER ENGINES

0 = STEAM WITH SIGNAL SOUNDS

1 = DIESEL WITH SIGNAL SOUNDS

2 = DIESEL WITH CAB LIGHT AND SIGNAL SOUNDS

4 = STEAM WITH SMOKE

5 = DIESEL WITH STROBE LIGHT

6 = DIESEL WITH CAB LIGHT

36 = ALCO PA

 

’S - NEW IN 1997

70 = J1E HUDSON & S.F. WARHORSE (BOTH

LOCO&TENDER MUST BE ON TRACK)

Yes I have the base. I will try it after work tonight

Thanks Greg.

Actually I guess it it the Custom II my speaker went bad on.  The pinkish pastel one.  These are both unique engines.  They come programmed from the facory long hood forward.  Their Railsounds are different in that you cannot increase the RPMs with the remote.  It has to come from the motion of the engine.  The burnout sounds are great.  As are the startup and shutdown sequences.  I have run mine in a lashup MU or whatever and that is a blast.  I am going to look at my guy right now to change that speaker.  Again, good luck.  These are cool engines.

GGG, thanks for the reset procedure. It actually repaired the engine. The engine runs TMCC and conventional with all sounds and lights.

Thanks, Greg

Darn, I was looking forward to hearing the sounds of that engine!.  Glad it was simple.  G

I did a video of it a few months ago. I'll have to find it and download it for you. It can be annoying. It has the loudest sound system of all my engines.

I'm going to do a quick video too for fun.
'Gentleman, start your engines!'
Would live to see yours. 
Great toy train engines.  I have both models as I said before.  I like em!

Glad you guys are enjoying these. I actually own one of them, I think it was the first one. We recorded the sounds from two of Neil's old cars. One I think was a cadillac biarritz and the other a lincoln--perhaps the car he later had converted to electric operation and ultimately burned in a warehouse fire.

 

I seem to remember there was a button that caused the engine to rev while stationary. Does the boost button do that? I might be mis-remembering, don't hold me to it!

Yes, the boost button. When running, the boost button will rev it and cause it to take off like a rocket. Strange it was recorded from Neils cars. The blue one I got sounds like a worn out inline six with the muffler cut off.

Here's the video. Enjoy

 

Neat!  To bad Neil did not have a Road Runner.  Could have had a Beep Beep Horn!  G

Riverrailfan - did yours come factory programmed as long hood is forward?  To be honest, I don't think your sounds are the same as mine.  Yours seems to stay in first gear.  Mine changes gears and does a burnout when it engages the next speed step.  Yours seems to putter in idle even when in motion instead of the RPMs increasing.  I should do a video.  I just took up my O gauge track.  Maybe this weekend.

Maybe the cracked cam is slipping.  G

yes the cracked cam is slipping. I recorded that back in the summer, so I gues it was cracked then. that repair I think is going to be epoxy. That is why there is no burn outs and engine rev. Has it in conventional because it is using transformer voltage.

 

William, the custom 1 and custom 2 have different sound files. When I get the cam fixed I will update the video.

 

GGG, a Hemi would of been good.

 

Yes long hood forward, which is why I replaced the rear coupler. It was releasing running the engine with the consist.

I've got both engines.  My Custom II is the one with a bad speaker.  I'm going to get that fixed.  I was looking at it a day or so ago.  I have the speaker.

Ok, how do I access the speaker to change it out? Which screws do I need to twist?  I have it ready to go, but I thought I'd ask before I wasted time taking the wrong things apart.  Please advise.  I can get this done right away.
I'll put a loop together and do a short video.  I think we need to see how this baby really sounds.  I've run them MUd together too.  Very cool.

William, The rev sounds are all voltage change. To get the burn out and high revs, you have to ramp the speed up fast. The only way I can do this with a DCS remote is to scroll the wheel as fast as possible on 128 step speed. Then if operates properly. This is probably a lot easier with CAB1 remote. If I run it conventional the burn outs and revs are there all the time.

 

I only have one question for GGG. What exactly does the cam on the axle with the micro switch control. I reglued it and it does not seem to control sound. The only thing that changed is now I can run the engine 128 step speed control compared to 33 step. When I first ran the engine with DCS, it would only run 33 step. After regluing the cam, now it will run 128 step. Seems when it didn't see the micro switch actuation, it reverted back to 33 step.

 

Greg 

It is the equivalent of a chuff switch.  For the early diesels it would ramp up sounds based on actual speed when in TMCC operation.  Is the cam contacting the switch and does the switch close and open?  Are the wires attached to the switch?  G

The cam contacts the switch. It actually binds on it slightly which probably cracked it. I would have to test that it is working as the wires are attached.

Upon further investigation, I found that the cam was causing the wheels to lock up and not spin during operation. The cam was hitting against the micro switch body.

 

 

The 2 options I had was to remove the truck and spacer the switch. The screw was not threaded that deep in the truck and I was going to have to remove the circuit board from the chassis for access to the mounting. The other option was to file the cam down. Second option was a easier choice. After filing the tips of the cam down, it moved freely and did not need a lot of contact to actuate the switch.

 

 

This is the result with the switch operating properly. I still have to use 128 speed steps  with DCS controller but it works.