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You have to determine if the problem is mechanical or electrical. In other words, is the coupler opening from the strain of pulling the train, or is it being erroneously commanded to open.

 

Open the tender and disconnect the wiring to the coupler itself. See if the problem continues. If so, the problem is mechanical.

 

the fix might be to shoot some graphite into it, or take it apart and stretch the spring a bit.

 

If the coupler stops spurious opening when it is disconnected, then it is being commanded to open at the wrong time. With TMCC, a 1 microfarad non=polorized capacitor across the coupler leads is the fix. 

Last edited by RoyBoy
thank you Roy.NickOriginally Posted by RoyBoy:

You have to determine if the problem is mechanical or electrical. In other words, is the coupler opening from the strain of pulling the train, or is it being erroneously commanded to open.

 

Open the tender and disconnect the wiring to the coupler itself. See if the problem continues. If so, the problem is mechanical.

 

the fix might be to shoot some graphite into it, or take it apart and stretch the spring a bit.

 

If the coupler stops spurious opening when it is disconnected, then it is being commanded to open at the wrong time. With TMCC, a 1 microfarad non=polorized capacitor across the coupler leads is the fix. 

 

Thanks Forrest,I will check that out while I have the tender opened up.NickOriginally Posted by Forrest Jerome:

got this from mike reagan concerning a problem i was having with the tender coupler on my GS-64.  it worked

 

You could install the 1.0uF 50V non polarized electrolytic cap between the two coupler leads, but the best fix is to ensure a solid ground between the coupler wire and ground. A poor ground is the culprit 90% of the time.

 

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