TMMC Eng. will not run

Still could be a R2LC or a DCDS issue.  First do a R2LC reset for your engine, then check the wiring.  Especially motor terminal to DCDS.  Could be cold solder joint, broken wire especially at connector.

Reseat connectors, if still no solution do a swap of R2LC and then DCDS.  G

Check what George stated first.  Next, look at the motor with the semsor and magnetic ring.  Look for a broken flywheel  ring then pull the connection off the sensor board then plug it back in and see what you have.  The plug will have three wires.  Check continuity between the motor (sensor plug) and driver board.  If you have continuity, look at the three wires on the driver board and follow the wire that is next to the 10 pin connector back to the sensor board.  Power your track to 18 volts and take your meter set to DC and put one probe on  ground and the afore mentioned wire on the sensor board.  You should see 5VDC.  Do that and get back to us.

Swapped out R2LC and did a reset. Now eng works but I have no sound. There is a hum from the speaker. Vol is up and tried RPM up. No change. Next steps - swap out speaker? Swap out sound board?  Thanks

First off, try to reseat the two RS boards.  Just pull them off the pins and reseat them.  Obviously, check any connectors as well.

Do what John stated then do this.  That engine had the old crappy volume pot.  Pull your R2LC board and put your track power to 18 volts.  On your Railsounds audio board, touch pin 18 to pin 16 and see if the volume comes on full.  If not, replace the pot if reseating the Railsounds audio board does not help.

Onle last thing before going at the pot.  Pull both chips on the audio board and reseat them.

If you're going to reseat the RS chips, DON'T TRY TO DO IT WITHOUT A CHIP PULLER!  Prying on them will almost surely crack the socket and then you have a bigger problem!

Great advice John.  We sometimes forget every guy does not have some needed tools.

I have a smile now!! It was the pot and now sound works with another sound board!! Thanks for all the help. I ordered the IC puller. While waiting I would like to take a look at my non working R2LC13. To me it looks like the REG - see picture - is bad. I see no #s on it. What size do I need?  Also need help with smoke unit. I have 5 V to the unit. Stopped working. Smoke motor works when directly jumped. Thanks again for all help.

That little regulator on the smoke unit is running near it's limits, it's an LM78L05, the TO92 package.  It frequently fails.

The "regulator" you point out on the R2LC is actually the smoke triac, a 2N6075BG available at Digikey or Mouser.  If you have smoke issues with that board, that could be the issue.

Send your board to one of the guys with the Lionel board tester.  It takes about 2 seconds to test the board functions.

My IC puller tool has arrived. how do I get it under the chip? There doesn't seem to be enough room to insert the ends of the puller under the chip. See Photos.  Please advise. Update - smoke unit is now working after reg replaced. Even upgraded as per Mike R video! Thanks for all the help. Learning along the way. 

Wrong puller.  Need the version like a hook and it goes into the corner slots.  G

It looks like this.

New tool arrived yesterday. Both chips were pulled and prongs were touched softly with 150 grit sandpaper And replaced as taken out. Started eng. - no sound. Reprogrammed eng. ID,then pushed the Aux and 8. Still no joy. Could the triac (?) and or the reg (?) be bad? See photo. What should I try next?  Thanks for all your help

Maybe it's time to test the boards in another engine.

Swap the RS power Supply board with a know good one.  If that doesn't work, put the RS board in a known good engine.  If it still doesn't work, replace the RS board, if it does work, the Mother Board has an issue.  G

Ok-swapped out power board. Still does not work. Replaced sound board with another- works In this eng. So - bad sound board. Caps look good. The only ones left that I can try to replace are pointed in red in picture. What are they? Need their #s. It's worth a try.

I doubt it's the caps, it's unlikely they'd cause a total failure.  You can move the chips to a new RS5 board and retain your sounds.