TRANSFERS -DECAL PAPER

I use an Alps printer to make decals and I seal them with Krylon Matt Finish No 1311

I can be found at most art supply stores. Use several light coats.

Do you coat them before of after applying them?

I do not use any sealer on my ALPS decals or dry transfers rubbed down onto decal paper. Both apply fine.....but be gentle....ALPS and dry transfers are not as rugged as screen printed or even laser decals.

I seal them before I apply them, that helps keep them from being damaged. After I coat the entire model with a Flat or semi-gloss finish.

I agree that coating them HELPS protect them on application. My issue is that a clear that is not too 'HOT' to affect the ALPS or dry transfers is to thick and then shows after application. So for ME it works better to not use clear coat. But it's best to try each way and find what works for you.

thanks for the replies.think I ll try amc daves idea.i agree with the clear build up,too thick.i ll try one ,that way.if it does nt work, will coat before installing.worth a shot,can always make another one.my first thought was, that the letters would come loose after being in the water.

thanks again

When I coated them first, it seemed like the water would never soften the adhesive enough to get it off the paper. When I tried to soak uncoated decals, they just smeared. What was I doing wrong? Was it just that inkjet decals won't work well inherently? I used to be great at decals in the 50's with Monogram, Revell and the other plastic airplane kits.

I really feel ink jet decals are not worth the time. For $1 you can take your art to a office store and have them laser printed. Then they are ready to apply when you get home.

Ink jet require the correct paper for ink jet and the correct sealer and a long drying time. Then they will not work on any color but white and maybe light yellow.  Wrong paper OR sealer and you get the fusion of layers that will not allow the decal to release from the paper.

All my homemade custom decals are simply dry transfers rubbed on decal paper.

No coating; simple process. I then cut them out and use them like any other water-slide

decals. Been doing it for years.

Rub it, dunk it, slide it on. Period.

Of course, once applied, these, again, are treated like other decals - Dullcote is used as

a sealer.

One caveat: once you have rubbed your decal into existence, I wouldn't put it away in

storage for any length of time (weeks/months), as I am sure that the dry transfer is not as robust as a factory-printed decal sheet. I just do it, use it and seal it. 

The road name and reporting marks are dry-transfers (alphabet/numeral sets) on decal

paper/water-slide method. 

D500,

Any problem with the transfer coming off the decal paper when you wet it?  Also, is the lettering somewhat raised or does it sink down into the decal film.  Any problem  with the decal settling down into the crevices on a car?  Thanks in advance.

1. Airbrush Future floor wax onto painted/cured model.

2. Allow to dry.

3. Rub transfer on to decal film.

4. I choose to coat with Micro decals coating (not sure it's even made anymore). I've done coated and non-coated, didn't see much difference to be honest.

5. Apply decal to model.

6. Apply Micro Set or SolvaSet (It may not be made anymore either).

IF you choose to use SolvaSet, I highly encourage you to gently wipe decals with a wet "Q-tip" when dry before the dull coat.  After years of time, it will 'brown' the decal if you don't.  Then your SOL....

Step 6 softens the decals and allows it to have the 'painted on' look that shows all the detail-rivets, recessed panel lines, etc.

7. Apply dull coat.

8. Crack a Cold One.  That means beer for all you techno geeks 

Step 8 is my favorite.