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Friends,

 

I have a question about ol-fashioned AC power supplies and adjusting the track voltage.  First let me lay out my situation.  I inherited my Dad's & his brothers Lionel & Marx post-war trains.  Recently I decided to assemble a small layout (3 sheets of 4*8 plywood).  I opted for FastTrack simply for the convenience.  All the track is down, and based on some of the interesting SuperStreets postings (on this forum) I also incorporated 2 loops of SS track.  I even have 3 SS/FT crossovers, and hand built a block control relay to kill power to the SS crossing while a train on or near the crossing.  There is lots of great information on how to wire detector circuits on this forum.  I even added a operating MTH crossing gate on the second DT relay pole.  

 

I have several transformers.  These include both post-war KW and ZW, and two 'new' ones (K-Line & Lionel from the early 90's).  All but the K-line 80-watt have a noticeable hum.   I know the ZW needs one of the carbon pickups replaced as the original has a flat spot and had started a scratch in the windings.  I am careful not to use that lever until I fix the pickup.  Be that as it may, I would still prefer no hum.  

 

Besides the SS motorized units, I plan to run one or maybe two engines at once on my layout (ranging from post-war 2020 Turbine, to Marx F3, #61 switcher, to modern engines like 8027 C&O & small units like beeps & handcars).  My public math skills lead me to believe all this could be operated off the 80-watt transformer just fine.  

 

This brings me to my questions.  Is it possible to use (two) external rheostats to drop the voltage/current to the two circuits separately?  If so, would adjustable light switches (dimmers) suffice?  I would prefer sliders as 'throttles'. 

From college I already understand Voltage (E) = Current (I) * Resistance (R) and Power (watts) = Voltage (E) * Current (I).  Rough calculations show 16V at 25W is ~ 1.5A, not calculating for AC RMS (.77?) voltage, which should increase the current somewhat.  14vdc (RMS of 18v AC) @ 50 watts is over 3.5A? (need the resistance to complete the calculation) - this should be somewhere about maximum load.  Anyone know the Ω of average engine innards while in operation? 

 

I found another post about adjusting current to accessories and that post recommended rheostat of 1kΩ(or less) with rating of up to 25watts. I am guessing a linear taper is what should be selected for this application.  What I don't know is how much heat the control will generate, but at this low(ish) current, it should be within the operating range of the rheostat.   All this leads me to a couple of what to some may seem to be naive questions: 

 

Is there a generic rule of thumb for the operating range we need to be within for this hobby?

And is there any additional risk of running two circuits off one transformer and external rheostats?      

 

Thanks for all the advise & wisdom!

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Here are few ideas in no particular order:

 

Your best bet is to use what we all use: either two separate transformers, in phase, or one transformer that has two throttles. Since transformers are so inexpensive and are perfectly suited for this, why not just use them?

 

You are trying to re-invent something that you needn't. The KW and ZW are perfect for this.  Since you have them already, just enjoy them as they were intended to be used.

 

In the very old days, 0-scale hobbyists used very large rheostats with large output transformers, because the miracle of electronics had not happened yet.  Rheostats use a lot of the input electricity and emit it as heat. 

 

An 80 watt transformer will not give you the power that you require. Even the 90-watt 1033 that we all had in our childhoods was considered just an entry-level transformer.

 

Residential dimmers are not suitable. They do not vary voltage. They vary the output waveform.  (Google it to see an explanation of how they work)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using rheostats when you have such a wide variety of transformers available would be a shame. A rheostat limits current, not voltage, so the train performance will vary considerably depending on the load placed across it.

 

It sounds like you have enough equipment to power everything with taps off of the transformers - 6 alone with just the KW & ZW once you get the one ZW roller fixed. The smaller transformers would work nicely for the SStreets.

Thanks for all the great advice so far!  I assumed that since dimmers can also control ceiling fans they would work for this application also.  

 

Just to verify if I understand correctly: To ensure the 2 transformers are in phase, they will be on the same outlet strip, but will testing the AC voltage across the U posts from one to the other - and if that is 0 - then that means they are "in phase".  They both have original mains plugs which are not polarized, so one could be easily inverted.  

 

I was looking at my ZW windings, and now I wonder if I will need a special rivet setting tool for reattaching the pickup?  

 

Secondly, does anyone have the ZW service or operating manual handy?

 

Thanks again

 

D

The best phasing tutorial I have seen is HERE .

 

You don't need a special tool to change the rollers. There are several ways to flare or distort the rivet just enough so it doesn't fall out. 

 

On one of my ZW's that has been bolted down for over 40 years in one place the rivets aren't peened at all, they just stay in by gravity. This will have to change when I move it.

 

The service manual is HERE.

Originally Posted by ADCX Rob:

Using rheostats when you have such a wide variety of transformers available would be a shame. A rheostat limits current, not voltage, so the train performance will vary considerably depending on the load placed across it.

 

It sounds like you have enough equipment to power everything with taps off of the transformers - 6 alone with just the KW & ZW once you get the one ZW roller fixed. The smaller transformers would work nicely for the SStreets.

A rheostat is simply a resistor, and as such will vary voltage as well as current.  In a series circuit each component has a voltage drop across it.  current is determined by total circuit resistance, and while it decreases as circuit resistance increases, it is the same for each component in a series circuit.

 

A perfect example of this is a 'current limiting' resistor for an LED.  Its purpose is also to reduce the supply voltage to a safe level for the LED.

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