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I have a 182 Crane.  It was running really rough.  I took it apart, but in a new brush plate, brushes and springs.  I cleaned the armature top with alcohol and fine grit sandpaper.  It took a while but was very clean and smooth when done.  It runs better than before, but still not the best.  I just don't know what else to do.  I oiled everything as well.  It runs very slow and it's still loud.  It makes a squeaky noise too.  It is something with the motor as I run the motor not engaged with anything else and it still is loud and squeaks.  It's like a 8 cylinder running on maybe 6 cylinders to describe it.

Last edited by steam
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Carefully unsolder the two wires to the motor, note which wire and where it was soldered. Get yourself a small can of clear mineral spirits and a small coffee can. Remove the brush plate and then use a cheap 1" natural bristle paint and cut about 1/2" off the end and remove any loose bristles. Now wash the motor out in the mineral spirits, remove all of the grease and grime etc. Set is aside with the motor resting upside down and allow the mineral spirits to drain off and evaporate. Now wash the brush plate thoroughly and use a few Q-Tips to clean out the brush holders.  Check the brush springs to make sure you installed them correctly. When everything has dried off, use a pen oiler and mineral oil, turbine oil or fishing reel oil and put some oil on the armature shaft under the wound stack so that it creeps down into the bearing. Do not use 3in1 oil. Now reassemble the motor. Use a pair of test leads, put one on the motor housing and touch the other to one of the two solder points where the wires had been attached and see how the motor runs. Touch the other solder point to make sure the motor runs in the opposite direction. Make sure you oil the bearing where the armature shaft spins - this is a must. If the motor runs well, reinstall it into the crane taking care to properly mesh the drive gear. Put a drop of oil on each of the carrier bearings for the yokes riding on the gear shaft. Now test your crane.

3 in 1 made two different commonly available oils. Their motor oil comes in a blue can. Their "multipurpose" oil comes in a red can. I don't know whether these products are even made any longer. Update: the products are still made. The multipurpose oil comes in a black and while plastic container. The motor oil comes in a blue and white plastic container.  3-in-one web site

Here is an extract from an article on fan lubrication:

3.      3 in 1 "Motor Oil" in the BLUE can, NOT the "Multi-Purpose" Red container.
         SAE ~ 20  (both are non-detergent, ONLY buy the BLUE can!
         (The red can has Naptha.  Not recommended.  The Naptha gets the dirt in suspension
         then evaporates leaving dirt on the bearing surface, like detergents)
         Chain stores Lowes, Home Depot, may stock the BLUE "3 in 1 Oil"

 

Full article on Fan lubrication

 

I have both types of 3-in-one in my shop. Occasionally I'll use the red stuff to wet a piece of emory cloth / wet-dry sandpaper, or as a cleaning agent.

I don't remember the last time I used the blue stuff.

The 3-in-one I have is OLD, I don't remember when it was purchased.
         

Last edited by C W Burfle
jim pastorius posted:

Why not use 3 in 1 oil ??  I do, maybe I will change what I use. Thanks

The original version of 3 in 1 oil, black and white can, red lettering, which is still available today contains 97% "Severely Hydrotreated Heavy Naphthenic Oil" and 2% straight Naphtha. Since most of Lionel motors and trucks used bearings made of Oilite, this version of 3 in 1 oil will strip the oil in the Oilite bearings leaving dirt and grit behind as the Naphtha evaporates. The version in the Blue/White can that the company touts as "Pneumatic Tool Oil" contains "Severely Hydrotreated Heavy Paraffinic Oil" and "Dewaxed Petroleum Oil Light", approximately 99% combined. Both oil types rely on a petroleum carrier that, when exposed to air, evaporates and leaves behind particulates, wax and a multitude of other residue types.

Here is the MDS sheet for the Red/White (now Black/White) version:

http://www.wd40company.com/fil...elescoping-spout.pdf

Here is the MDS sheet for the Blue/White version:

http://www.wd40company.com/fil...eumatic-tool-oil.pdf

Here is a sheet the details the difference between Paraffinic, Naphthenic, Hydrotreated and Synthentic oils:

http://www.lubegard.com/pdfs/w..._atf_base_stocks.pdf

Essentially, the Blue/White version is automatic transmission fluid. We use Turbine oil. Turbine oils are rust -and oxidation-inhibited (R&O) lubricants that meets the requirements for use in steam-turbines. They are generally an ashless, sulfur containing hindered phenol that can be used as a primary or secondary antioxidant for lubricants formulated with mineral oils and synthetic fluids. The primary carrier is mineral oil, the same oil that is impregnated into the Oilite bearing material.

 

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