Upper Level fustration: Any Ideas?

I built my own upper level.  I use it to run post war trains.

How will you reach across that distance to maintain/clean/wire your track and erect scenery?  Thirty inches is about the maximum average reach.  You may want to carefully consider this question.  Access holes?  Is the layout able to be moved away from the wall when there are issues?

Those are two current pics of my layout.  Yes, I do have buildings, etc. on it, but I removed everything to slide the carpet under.  I'm almost finished with the carpet upgrade, then I will begin installing everything back on the layout.  As you might notice my layout is flat, I admire layout with mountains, streams, lakes, etc., but I'm not really gifted in that area.  I love running my trains!

John brings up an excellent point you need to think about.  I built topside creeper that enables me to reach the other side of my layout.  I can also walk out on my layout and I do have an access hatch cut into the top of the layout.  My layout is 84" wide, honestly, it's too wide to easily reach from one side.  I wish I had a giant basement, but like most, I work with what I have.  I'm just thankful I have a large upper room to use.

I had a upper level on my flat 5x11 layout and took it down because it blocked to much and made it hard to work on. I also made my own trestles. I do miss running my elevated trains though.

franktrain

I don't like to or intend to "rain on anyone's parade."  My sole purpose and intent: trying to help someone NOT repeat past mistakes.  Better to know beforehand vs. the instant you have that "GEE WHIZ!!!  I should have..." moment.

In O scale (other scales as well) there has been a historical trend to make layouts too wide to maintain/clean/update/etc.   There is nothing worse then to go to a lot of effort and time to discover that your turnout (switch) that is the most difficult to reach will be the place where you will experience your most issues.

People who design, build and operate model railroads should always ask themselves over and over and over again: How will I reach EACH AND EVERY SPOT on my layout?

You will need to clean every inch of your track large or small.  Do yourself (and back, knees, arms) a huge favor and make it as easy as you can to COMFORTABLY reach all points on your layout, or be prepared to suffer the consequences.  :-)

I just did a Google video search for the following subjects, How to elevate model railroad track ?,also,  How to build a mode l railroad grade elevation? There seems to be some video available, most of these are HO layouts, the principles are the same regardless of scale, just scale risers for O Scale, be aware of clearance were the elevated track crosses over a lower track( top of rail of lower track to bottom of bridge supporting the upper track), maintain upgrades and downgrades 2 to 3 degrees preferably closer to 2 degrees, also space your risers to minimize deflection/twisting of track. Maintaining  2 degree rise/decline requires long elevated track sections, do some preliminary trigonometric calculations to determine the run for the track elevation track rise you chose with an  angle of 2 degrees, the rise divided by the run is the slope of the angle  in our case 2 degrees, this is a right triangle. Also the tangent of an angle is equal to the rise divided by the run, the angle can also be determined for rise divided run by using the arctangent(arctan function on scientific calculator) take the arctan function of the number determined by dividing the rise by the run. The hypotenuse or length of the incline is the square root of the rise squared plus the run squared. If you don not have a scientific calculations, there should be a right angle trigonometric calculator on the web for use.

All great responses. Positive and negative to running upper level. 

I started mine too late. I have too many buildings etc. 

Did not think about being abel to reach stuff.

Really don't like the look so I guess I'll take it down  

My wife gave me my own room in the house so it's part of our living area .  Kind of like a man/train cave.  Don't have to worry about heat and cold etc .  It really is a show piece when visitors come in.

Only issue is the table is in the corner of the room so I have to get up on the table to work.  It's large. I did this to give me more room and use the side wall and back wall  for maybe a platform or upper level or maybe for a trolley or Christmas seen.

Hi.

You may want to look at what Bridgeboss.com offers in the way of both Girder bridges and the ELevated bridge system. The EL was designed w the intent of straddling existing structures, tracks, and highways so as not to disturb anything already on your layout.

See a few examples below.

thanks, jim r

I have looked at Bridgeboss and love their products.  Really nice stuff.

I'm not good with stuff, building stuff, I would have to do a lot of measuring, There would be a lot of trial and error for me.

Also looks expensive.  Would cost me a lot to do my layout and I would have to pay to have it assembled and painted as well.

For me there WEB site is a little confusing. Would like to see it simple maybe a picture of a system using Fastrack.

Dkokoszka posted:

I have looked at Bridgeboss and love their products.  Really nice stuff.

I'm not good with stuff, building stuff, I would have to do a lot of measuring, There would be a lot of trial and error for me.

Also looks expensive.  Would cost me a lot to do my layout and I would have to pay to have it assembled and painted as well.

For me there WEB site is a little confusing. Would like to see it simple maybe a picture of a system using Fastrack.

 

 

Call Jim at Bridge-boss and ask him your questions. I am sure he can accommodate you.

Dkokoszka posted:

I am having a hard time adding an upper level.  I am using the Lionel Trestle elevated system 6-12038.

I struggled to get these trestles built.  Not a great product.  I used #10 screws instead of the push pins, glued the bottom trestle to the base so it does not wobble.  NOTE: 1 package needed to be glued the other packager was snug when pushed into bottom base.

After playing around with it and installing the track it just did not look good.  What I mean is the height now blocks buildings etc.

I have a flat layout now. Nice because you can see everything, lights, buildings, people etc.

Any thoughts? Do most NOT use trestle systems? Do most have flat table layouts?

Would love to see a few pics or videos on Upper Level Layouts.  I screened You-Tube but not to much on this subject.

Thank you in advance for your time and comments!!  

Can you show us photos and track plan of your layout? It helps to plan out elevated tracks ahead of time, instead of adding them on to an existing flat layout. As a general rule it works better to place elevated sections towards the back of the layout as much as possible.

I find SCARM track planning software very useful for planning multi-level layouts because the 3-D views help you visualize different arrangements before you actually build.

Here are some pictures of what I did - the risers are wood painted with textured paint to look like concrete.

I like that the trestle is to the back and side of the walls. This is exactly how my tabel is set up.  I will post pics when I get home. 

Appreciate all the comments, Thank you guys, awesome forums!

Here our some pictures. Room is on my first floor of my home. 

You can make your own elevated rail :

J Daddy posted:

You can make your own elevated rail :

Nice work!!

Unless I missed it, I didn't see what size curves you are using. 

I took a somewhat crude - but easy method. I have a small 0-31 oval with siding elevated on my layout. I have a 4x8 layout with a 4x4 bump-out on the side (L Shape). I can run 4 trains and 2 trolleys. 

I simply purchased a 4x4 sheet of plywood, laid the track out, traced and they cut out the "ring" the track will sit on. Follow that up with some 2x4 "legs" and paint and done! It has that "home made" look, which I'm find with. It is basic but does the job. I've built several of these over the years and on different layouts. 

SJC that layout looks really nice, good work.

Here is a picture of what I did.  As you can see, I run big articulated locomotives on the elevated double track.

Each pier is supported top and bottom with one screw, a twist lock with star head.  Do NOT use drywall screws.

Clearance from top of rail to under the platform is 6-3/4", enough to clear double stack container cars (scale).

They are easy to make on a table saw.

bruce

Very nice!! Thanks for the input. 

Dave

Dkokoszka posted:

Here our some pictures. Room is on my first floor of my home. 

Looks really good. That's an interesting arrangement with the asymmetric table shape in a corner, which provides some variation from a typical rectangular table.

It could be possible to engineer an upper level on the back part of the layout, with the main ovals in tunnels or otherwise hidden from view at the back. My thoughts are to keep the front of the layout area flat for the existing buildings. An upper level could provide scenic enhancement and provide a view block for the back part of the main ovals, which helps mask the oval arrangements. We could think up some ideas if you provide the dimensions of your table.

Awesome, Thank you. Tabel was built that way to enhance look. Right thru my front door first room on left is my train room. Wife had me move it from the basement to 1 st floor of house. 

We just wanted it to be part of our house.  It's a show piece now for company and children!!

I decided to use the back and side wall as an upper level. I can run a trolley along tracks, make it a Christmad scene or use it to connect the elevated trestle system. I was thinking of putting woodland scenic  buildings on top.  Something different. 

Your right, scenic enhancements!!

Thanks a bunch!!

Dave

Mr. Union Pacific.       Sorry. This has nothing to do with this post but you have no email in your profile.   please contact me about the ABA set I would like to purchase on the for sale forum.   Thank you.   Chris Lonero.