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I'm still not clear on exactly how much of a "base" you need on the driving wheels, how to apply it prior to applying the "snot." I have tried the "snot" without anything under it, but traction is problematic. Also, in my experience, the "snot" does not last that long....2-3 months or so depending on the amount that its being run. It then seems to dry out and separate from the wheel in part..leaving little green strings attached to parts of the wheel.

If this is to be expected, then it might make more sense to just replace the tires, albeit with something to affix them to the wheel for some stability.

Also, does the wiring up of the engine (and tender if necessary) to run the engine to apply the "snot" pose any risks of short or electrical damage?


Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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You had better luck than i did.I tried it and had a mess.I will just stay away from that stuff.I think this stuff is bets used for h.o. and n scale.O gauge trains well at least for me.Is a big no no for me.
quote:
Originally posted by KevinH:
I'm still not clear on exactly how much of a "base" you need on the driving wheels, how to apply it prior to applying the "snot." I have tried the "snot" without anything under it, but traction is problematic. Also, in my experience, the "snot" does not last that long....2-3 months or so depending on the amount that its being run. It then seems to dry out and separate from the wheel in part..leaving little green strings attached to parts of the wheel.

If this is to be expected, then it might make more sense to just replace the tires, albeit with something to affix them to the wheel for some stability.

Also, does the wiring up of the engine (and tender if necessary) to run the engine to apply the "snot" pose any risks of short or electrical damage?


Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I have it on a few models also, and it sure seems to work fine. Some tips:

1) Make sure the groove where the old tire came from is CLEAN!!! I use lacquer thinner and let the cleaned groove dry fully.

2) Put on a thin layer of BullFrog Snot first and let it set for awhile (30 min to an hour).

3) Put in a second layer and let THAT sit for awhile.

4) Use a third layer as needed, and then let it sit OVERNIGHT at least. I think I have waited one or two days, prior to turning the locomotive right-side-up and test running it in the yard for some time.

Haven't thrown any of the BullFrog Snot off yet. Plus, I especially like it on steam locomotives, since you don't have to remove any of the side rods.
I tried it on a couple of engines and had mixed results. I couldn't get enough of it on a wheel to fill the groove but it did work for a while. That same E6 MTH engine took a dump on me that same day although unrelated and blew out the circuit board that controls all the lights. I also put some on a Lionel 2-8-0 consolidation and it seemed to work better. Since then, I have gone back to traction tires. In the future I will only use snot where it would be a lot of work to remove rods and or valve gear to replace a tire.

Ray
quote:
Originally posted by NCT:
quote:
Originally posted by gg1man:
Dennis has the best alternitive to traction tires. Frog Snot out right stinks. It's costly and dries up like a rock once you open the jar.
Stay away from it.;


Mine is still good a year after I first used it. Confused


They must of had tomuch hardner in the jar I got , NCT. I made sure the lid was tight and the jar was only open for a minute or two the frist and only time I opened it.
I think it was about three months when I came back to it and after what I paid for the crap I was very disappointed to say the lest.
quote:
Originally posted by Dennis:
If you would prefer to try using silicone sealant, I can email you instructions and a photo of what to buy.
.....
Dennis


I used Dennis' silicone sealant method. It works extremely well, stays on a long time and is easy to apply. Nearly all of my engines have silicone sealant tires. Traction tires only last a couple of times around the layout on my Atlas track.

The best thing about silicone sealant is that you can get it at any hardware store and it is inexpensive compared to Frog Snot.

Thank you Dennis for the tip and instructions in a past forum post.

Joe
quote:
1) Make sure the groove where the old tire came from is CLEAN!!! I use lacquer thinner and let the cleaned groove dry fully.

2) Put on a thin layer of BullFrog Snot first and let it set for awhile (30 min to an hour).

3) Put in a second layer and let THAT sit for awhile.

4) Use a third layer as needed, and then let it sit OVERNIGHT at least. I think I have waited one or two days, prior to turning the locomotive right-side-up and test running it in the yard for some time.



I dunno. If you have to go through all this work for a replaceable product...ie it wears out, just like traction tires, then, seems more work/pain than benfit to me.
I am not sure how long silicone rubber lasts because I have never replaced any "silicone tires" yet. It happens that the factory tires I have had to replace mostly so far are on my PS-1 engines that I don't run as often as my newer PS-2 engines. I have only replaced the tires with silicone on one of my PS-2 engines so far. I know it is my method of choice now though. Any engine that throws a tire will get silicone rubber sealant as a replacement.
.....
Dennis

P.S. I cannot claim credit for this idea because I learned it on this forum many years ago from another forum member. I am the "passer on-er". That is what I love about this forum. It has "institutional knowledge" that can be passed on by "students".
quote:
Originally posted by gg1man:
Dennis has the best alternitive to traction tires. Frog Snot out right stinks. It's costly and dries up like a rock once you open the jar.
Stay away from it.;


Mario,

This is a very unique report. BULLFROG SNOT has a chemically spec'd shelf life of 5+ years. If it's 'like a rock', then it's likely been allowed to freeze. Instructions warn you about that.

Bill
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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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