Use SPDT Push Button Switch for RealTrax Turnout??

No.  The stock toggle/lever switch returns to the center "off" position via spring-loading when you release it.  In other words it has 3 positions: (ON) - OFF - (ON).   The pushbutton you show only has 2 positions.  To parallel your switch with the AIU you need a 3-position switch.  I am not aware of any 3-position, center "off", push-button type switches.  There are plenty of 3-position, center "off", toggle or lever switches for, say, $1-2.

Or, if you like pushbutton operation, you could use 2 pushbuttons per turnout...press one to activate turn, press the other to activate straight.

That makes sense, for some reason, I thought that the switches I shared were.  I blame that on my current state of ready to fall asleep.  They have to be on-off-on N.O. I believe, correct?

If I were to use a toggle, wouldn't it have to spring back to center if I were to use it with the AIU (similar to what the spring loaded RealTrax controller does?)

mjrodg3n88 posted:

I was wondering if I can use a SPDT Momentary Push Button switch for my RealTrax turnouts?  Also I will be using an AIU and wiring that in parallel with whatever controller (SPDT or stock.)  I want to use this on a control panel with red and green LEDs if I can

This is the one I found:
http://www.allelectronics.com/...ry-pushbutton/1.html

Yes, but you need two for each turnout(through & out)... and then you only need half of each SPDT - the NO side for Off-(On) operation. That being the case, just use a pair of these for each turnout:

I would just buy the black ones for .60 each and paint them red & green as needed.

mjrodg3n88 posted:

That makes sense, for some reason, I thought that the switches I shared were.  I blame that on my current state of ready to fall asleep.  They have to be on-off-on N.O. I believe, correct?

If I were to use a toggle, wouldn't it have to spring back to center if I were to use it with the AIU (similar to what the spring loaded RealTrax controller does?)

The SPDT switch you linked to is On-(On), the required SPDT toggle(or slide, or other type) would need to be (On)-Off-(On). The center-off-at-rest "normal"  position has to be there. The brackets in the nomenclature indicate the operator is holding the switch against a spring, releasing will return to "normal".

mjrodg3n88 posted:

That makes sense, for some reason, I thought that the switches I shared were.  I blame that on my current state of ready to fall asleep.  They have to be on-off-on N.O. I believe, correct?

If I were to use a toggle, wouldn't it have to spring back to center if I were to use it with the AIU (similar to what the spring loaded RealTrax controller does?)

Yes, it needs to spring back to center.  Note that I carefully used the notation of an (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch.  The parentheses around the ON denotes it is momentary behavior...returning to the OFF center position by itself when you release pressure.  If you go through the switches that you linked you will see they occasionally use the standard notation of placing the () around ON to indicate momentary, spring-loaded return to off behavior.  Too bad they don't edit their catalog to be consistent but their prices are good!

Not that I've used them myself but guys seem to be happy with these guys who seem to be careful in using the (ON)-OFF-(ON) notation to indicate the type of toggle/lever switch you need:

http://led-switch.com/Miniature%20Toggle%20Switch.htm

Or, if you want to use 2 push-buttons switches per turnout, if you think about it for a second those would be OFF-(ON) for type that returns by itself to the OFF position.  Or if all you can find are the double-throw style SPDT style that Rob discusses, they should be called ON-(ON).

BTW, once your sort out the switch type you want to use, there is another discussion about how to hook up LEDs (instead of the stock incandescent bulbs).  Do you want a single LED (so-called "bi-color") which can light up either red or green?   Or do you want two separate LEDs, one red, one green?

And what are you using for turnout power?

ADCX Rob posted:

 

I would just buy the black ones for .60 each and paint them red & green as needed.

Thats actually a pretty good idea, although I was hoping to only use one switch!

The SPDT switch you linked to is On-(On), the required SPDT toggle(or slide, or other type) would need to be (On)-Off-(On). The center-off-at-rest "normal"  position has to be there. The brackets in the nomenclature indicate the operator is holding the switch against a spring, releasing will return to "normal".

I knew that it would have to be on-off-on, but didnt know about the parenthesis, thanks for that information, Rob.

stan2004 posted:

Yes, it needs to spring back to center.  Note that I carefully used the notation of an (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch.  The parentheses around the ON denotes it is momentary behavior...returning to the OFF center position by itself when you release pressure. 

I did not know that until you and Rob said, thank you for that information.

Not that I've used them myself but guys seem to be happy with these guys who seem to be careful in using the (ON)-OFF-(ON) notation to indicate the type of toggle/lever switch you need:

I think I found one in the link you sent, thanks for that too.

BTW, once your sort out the switch type you want to use, there is another discussion about how to hook up LEDs (instead of the stock incandescent bulbs).  Do you want a single LED (so-called "bi-color") which can light up either red or green?   Or do you want two separate LEDs, one red, one green?

I only discovered yesterday via search on here the bi-color (can't remember where though), but planned on just using one red and one green.  Evan Designs has LEDs with everything connected to them ready to tie into the transformer/track.  Actually I will have a yard in which I'll be able to turn off each yard track via DPST toggle switch.  Each toggle switch will be connected to a LED (seems like I should use "an" there)  that will indicate when each track is turned on.

And what are you using for turnout power?

My turnout power currently is run via track, but will be powered through an old Lionel KW and using an inline fuse.

mjrodg3n88 posted:

My turnout power currently is run via track, but will be powered through an old Lionel KW and using an inline fuse.

 You might want to consider a circuit breaker sized to the load so you don't need to keep spares around, or hunt one down when it's needed.

stan2004 posted:

mjrodg3n88 posted:

That makes sense, for some reason, I thought that the switches I shared were.  I blame that on my current state of ready to fall asleep.  They have to be on-off-on N.O. I believe, correct?

If I were to use a toggle, wouldn't it have to spring back to center if I were to use it with the AIU (similar to what the spring loaded RealTrax controller does?)

Yes, it needs to spring back to center.  Note that I carefully used the notation of an (ON)-OFF-(ON) switch.  The parentheses around the ON denotes it is momentary behavior...returning to the OFF center position by itself when you release pressure.  If you go through the switches that you linked you will see they occasionally use the standard notation of placing the () around ON to indicate momentary, spring-loaded return to off behavior.  Too bad they don't edit their catalog to be consistent but their prices are good!

Not that I've used them myself but guys seem to be happy with these guys who seem to be careful in using the (ON)-OFF-(ON) notation to indicate the type of toggle/lever switch you need:

http://led-switch.com/Miniature%20Toggle%20Switch.htm

Or, if you want to use 2 push-buttons switches per turnout, if you think about it for a second those would be OFF-(ON) for type that returns by itself to the OFF position.  Or if all you can find are the double-throw style SPDT style that Rob discusses, they should be called ON-(ON).

Stan,

Im assuming that out of the switches in the link, the red colored ones rated at 6a / 28VDC are the correct ones to use?

MJ, 

Thanks for starting this! This is also on my to do list, and you've saved me a bit of legwork!

This one, correct?

Yes, those will do the job. 

Perhaps obvious but the AIU itself has (on)-off-(on) behavior;  when you press the remote button to activate a switch, it makes contact between the "IN" terminal and the selected "1" or "2" terminal (straight or diverge) for exactly 0.5 seconds...then returns to the off condition.

Thank you Rob and Stan

Question, can I replace the controller (with another type of switch) that comes with the RealTrax operational track?

A DPDT (on)-off-(on) switch can be used to replace the bulky controller. 6019 illustrated, RCS/UCS, GarGraves/Ross, RealTrax similar.

Mike,

Any update on your switch project? I'm in the process of re-wiring all of mine (I think I'm finally happy with my track plan). I'm currently just running power, but am not far from being ready for controllers. I'd really like to ditch the bulky OEM ones.

Thanks,

Chris

Hi Chris.  

This did work for me.  I used the mini toggles shown above T8014A for the RealTrax turnouts and mini pushbuttons PBS10B-2-R.  I wired them both in parallel with my AIU.  They are MUCH nicer than the big bulky controllers that come with the track itself.  Here they all are on my control panel (all in the track diagram, not the large on-off toggles to the right.  And yes, they've been tested and all work perfectly).

Mike

Nice panel Mike.

Thank you very much, John.

#MJRODG3N88 Hey Mike, I like the photo of your Mechanical designer, must like riding shotgun as well ! >g<

Nice job. Love to see it at night.

Here is a panel made to show optional wiring to a RealTrax turnout. The panel allows use of the original RailKing controller, or separate momentary action pushbuttons or the output from my MTH AIU. The local pushbutton panel also has LED indication.

Here is an example of a turnout control box made for use with RailKing turnouts.

in this example the action of a single pushbutton operates two turnouts simultaneously.

stan2004 posted:

BTW, once your sort out the switch type you want to use, there is another discussion about how to hook up LEDs (instead of the stock incandescent bulbs).  Do you want a single LED (so-called "bi-color") which can light up either red or green?   Or do you want two separate LEDs, one red, one green?

And what are you using for turnout power?

Stan,

Do you have a link to the thread discussing wiring the leds? 

Bi-color, 14V acc from Z-1000 for switch power. 

There is a discussion somewhere about replacing the incandescent controller bulbs with LEDs in Realtrax controllers but it's a fairly straightforward idea - here's one way:

Not sure if you already have the bi-color LEDs but in addition to the size (3mm, 5mm, etc.) you will see they come in common-anode or common-cathode.  Same components, just reverse the diode as shown depending on which type you have.

The turnout terminal diagram is from the Realtrax instructions; if your track power is also from the Z-1000, you don't need to run the black wire from the Z-1000 Aux screw-terminal to the turnout ACG terminal since that common/ACG connection is already made via track power.

I suggest a 1000 ohm (aka 1K) resistor which ought to be bright enough.   LED "efficiency" or brightness varies all over the map depending on which specific LED you get but 1K is a good starting point.  The resistor and diode are pennies each.

If not obvious, this circuit does not affect what's used for the rotating lens lamp in the switch-machine itself;  you can leave the incandescent bulbs installed there even if the controller switch uses LEDs.  I'm not sure if there are LED replacements for the wire-terminal bulbs; I've actually made DIY LED replacements for the MTH wire-terminal bulbs used in switch machines and lock-onsand I have written up how to do it - but it's tedious and I don't recommend it!

I have to make one comment about red-green bi-color LEDs.  Maybe you already have some that look good or were recommended by another train guy, but make sure the red and green colors (assuming that's what you using) are to your liking.  Without getting into the nuts-and-bolts of LED semiconductor technology, you will find some red LEDs are more orange-ish than red...and some green LEDs are more yellow-ish than green.  To each his own, but I prefer the deep red and deep green as you'd find in a street traffic signal.  I've found that the green is more of a "problem" with cheaper LEDs often more lime-green than pure-green.  Kind of like the discussion of using cool-white vs. warm-white LEDs for passenger car lighting.  Again, to each his own...

Stan, 

Thank you so much for this!!! 

I don't want to hijack Mike's post, but had a couple other questions for you. Would you mind shooting me an email? 

Mo985@yahoo.com   

I would have sent one to you, but it isn't listed in your profile. 

Thanks again.

chris