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 If it is used Gargraves flex track, it will not flex as easy as new.  Especially if it had ballast on it.  I have some luck by spraying WD40 on the whole piece so the ties will slide more easily when bending a curve.   I have also found that used Gargraves on Ebay is not that less expensive than new track from your LHS after you calculate shipping.  My current layout is all 027 tubular, but am planning switching to Gargraves (again) very soon.

Lots 'o' Trains Here

 

 

Used track can have problems you won't see if you buy it online. Buy used track in person is my recommendation. 

I have had a post war engine jump the track and damage my Gargraves track, it put a divot in the rail. I cut the track and used it again in another area.

Another thing to note is you can buy track pins from either Gargraves or Ross Custom switches. Gargraves makes insulating pins as well.

Lee Fritz

Last edited by phillyreading

I bought my first Gargraves back in 1994. The track made back then was a royal pain to solder wires onto the rails. I'm not sure when they changed the metal recipe of the product, but the stuff I bought recently is night and day different than the 1994 era track.

If you aren't planning on soldering to the track, then this is not an issue. 

But I will second what Phillyreading said, used track can have minor dents and dings that are hard to notice until you have the track in hand. These dings and dents really can make trains run odd, especially if they are on a curve.

I have used Gar Graves since 1967. I don't think I have any of the older track anymore. Some of the track I am using now is at least twenty years old. I have never bought used track. And as DRUMMER3 mentioned if the price is not that different then I would purchase only new and that way you would possible have less electrical problems. Over all these years I have never had a problem soldering Gar Graves. I use tin plated track. Stainless steel track will be considerably harder to solder............Paul

My entire (moderate size) layout is Gargraves including 19 switches. All new. I think they made a change to the way the switches are powered some 10-15 years ago. There not powered through anymore which is safer.

Yes - the post above is correct, they are a pain to solder, but can be soldered. I elected to use the pigtails. They work great and no need to solder. The curves, straights, and flex track work well and look good weathered. If I had to do it again would have used Ross switches. The other minor issue is the small gaps between the track joints. Adds noise and are sometimes sharp and need filed. This was fixed with conductive epoxy filler. Worked great. Just a suggestion but you don't have to use screws or nails. Just glue down with Titebond II. Very quiet and strong. 

Here's one for you.   I've been using new Gargraves for the the past two years.  I also have some that my father bought.  It's more than 50 years old.   As the guys say, old stuff can be pretty rigid.  I left it in the rain for 30 minutes.  It bent like it was brand new.  Looks perfect.

Ross switches were made specifically to mate with Gargraves track.  Give Steve a call and he will get them out to you quickly.

Paolo, do you suggest a brand name for conductive epoxy filler?  Sounds like a great idea.

Jerry

JerryG posted:

Here's one for you.   I've been using new Gargraves for the the past two years.  I also have some that my father bought.  It's more than 50 years old.   As the guys say, old stuff can be pretty rigid.  I left it in the rain for 30 minutes.  It bent like it was brand new.  Looks perfect.

Ross switches were made specifically to mate with Gargraves track.  Give Steve a call and he will get them out to you quickly.

Paolo, do you suggest a brand name for conductive epoxy filler?  Sounds like a great idea.

Jerry

Used Silver Conductive 2 part epoxy from the Ebay. Type this into the search engine "Conductive Silver Epoxy Low Cost Excellent Electrical Continuity, 906, 2.5gm" Its only $11 and does not require heat to crosslink. It does take one or two days to totally cure, longer in colder temps. Should be 60F or above. Been pleasantly pleased so far. Track is quiet and the gaps are not shortening the life of the rubber traction tires. Be sure to clean excess off track. Used on both center and outside rail joints. Seems to hold up well. If you need to remove or change a track, it seems to chip off easily enough as well.   

 

All of my Gargraves track is used and more than 20 years old. Bought at train shows locally. I only buy straight unbent sections and confirm that their is no plating that is flaking off or missing.  Also check for divots or dents in the rail head.  I like the versions with the lighter ties and black center rails.

I stay away from used stainless steel track, it is usually oxidized and a real bear to clean, it is harder to bend, and tougher to solder too. Plus I am not running trains outside.

The only issue I have with Gargraves is the flange hanging down past the tops of the ties that needs to be covered with ballast or painted.

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Never had a problem with used GG track.  Some of my own that had been in storage stiffened up.  The suggestion on this forum was to use WD 40, it worked like a charm.  Plan on about a week to have the odor from the WD 40 go away.  As far as soldering, never had an issue, prep, tin, heat and it works fine.

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