What did you do on your layout today?

I guess most of our posts here could simply say that!

Today I cut a piece of Chip Wood into tiny pieces of log wood.

I want to have a realistic stack of wood near my Hobo Fire Pit.

The one that came with the setup was brown plastic.

Not very appealing at all.

I will have some pictures this weekend on the updated Hobo Village.

 

Not me! One of the perks of being easily amused..... Oh! A piece of candy!

Loc-Tited a loose driver wheel on my #51 Navy Yard switcher.  It's even happier now! 

 

Mitch

Ordered a old Williams single-motor GG1 chassis for the Gi-raffe GG1 and a old #41 motorized switcher chassis for a future trolley snow sweeper project!

 

Also glued the underbody lifeguard fender on my customized Baltimore Peter Witt (by Bill Ondeko) and did a bit of preliminary fitting for my GP9-Rectifier conversion:

 

The rectifier humps are from discarded battery packs.  "SCROUNGE!" is my motto.

 

 

Broke out some postwar Pullmans to give "Junior" some exercise.  Also, I swapped the 12v front bulb in the Williams GP9 chassis for a 6v; those can motors are so efficient that the thing doesn't take enough voltage to light the 12v bulb very well...

 

Mitch

Added another Z4K to the roll away Power Station!

 

My Dad has been working to get the back portion of the layout finished. That means more rock molds and gap filling.

 

Tunnel clearances are checked with the biggest car we have for the inner liner, and the Big Boy is used for the outer liner clearance.

 

I had recently purchased an MTH Alaska SD70MAC PS2 engine with no sound from forum member "maint."  The engine ran fine using DCS or conventionally, just no sound.  I pulled the PS2 board and sent it to forum member GGG for repair of the audio amp. portion.  I received the board earlier in the week and reinstalled it.  While the board was in transit I also re-soldered a wire that had broken off the front coupler.  The engine now has sound and the front coupler works. 

It's practically a new engine with less than 30 hours on the chronometer and around 100 miles on the odometer. 

 

Larry

Lot of little projects going on. finished rewiring the layout. Still in the process of rewiring department 56 style buildings to the auxiliary feeds from my transformer. 

 

Finally was able to figure out a signal and power/short issue with my GN SD9. As a whim I replaced the wires from the trucks( Common and Hot) and now have a happy engine. Same for my CBQ Sd24 2/3 rail capable. Turned out the reason for the low speed jerking was due to the wheel sets not being seated correctly in the trucks against the motors worm gears.  

 

My on going project of converting all my rolling stock to Kadees is on track with half now completed thanks to laid of Sick's videos( Kadees installation for Dummies )

 

I also have gotten tired of the Weaver rolling stock with the waiting for a flood look. The fix is simple: I sanded down the couplers at the point where they sit on the truck to the height of the #8 washers I used to shim my All Nation Cars(2R to 3R wheel sets) and Weaver 3R cars the have been converted to Kadees. Now they look better and are the same height as the Atlas/MTH/All Nation/Lionel rolling stock with or without Kadee installation.

 

Starting to planning a new layout that will be in my Garage Haven't decide if I will go 2R with this one yet. So for the time being I going with 3R    

 

Now I am off to Ace Hardware to buy more #2 screws as I have run out.

 

 

Just relaxing running trains today. Tomorrow heading to Dalton OH to a train show.................Paul 

Serviced two PW horizontal motors per Jim Barrett's comprehensive and clear directions in the new OGR digital book.

Well not exactly layout work but here's a pic of my new work area.  Converted some wasted space in the laundry room and now have my tools and train parts organized.  Let's see how long it stays lol!  

Jon came over this afternoon, and we took on and conquered the missing link.

 

But first, Jon hung the track fixtures. There are just 3 left to do, but I'm holding off until Patrick finishes that last bit of backdrop.

 

The temporary bridge is made from strips of 1/8" Masonite and and 3/4" plywood spacers.

 

There are exactly 2 screws fastening it to the 2x4 support posts, everything else was done with hot glue.

 

The whole thing was then capped off with home made Homasote roadbed, also secured with hot glue.

 

 

I'd like to get the track done tomorrow, then the entire main level will be done!!!

 

It is looking like I will need one more case of track.

My friend George and I took one last trip together to Catoctin Mountain Trains, something we've done occasionally for many years that both of us will miss greatly. 

 

I bought a piece of track, a MTH corner store, and an MTH operating departure board. I debated on whether or not to get both accessories for a long time. I wasn't going to get both until I said "screw it" and got both. 

 

That departure board - what a PITA to hook up. Finally got it hooked up and it ran great....for about 5 minutes. Sounds like it is a belt drive and the gears and/or belt are slipping and it jammed up. Oh well. Back to the store it will go and get a replacement. 

 

On the layout, I took up the "yard" that really got little use and the switches that caused occasional "issues". Both are Ross. One went on the trolley line, the other will go into storage for another day. Will finish everything tomorrow once I get another departure board or equivalent. 

I've been watching this thread to see if 4500 posts or 195,000 views happened first.  People love this thread.  As of 10:00 A.M. 3/22 "Views" is the winner!

 

I have just made 5 gondola coal loads out of Styrofoam, latex paint and coal, of course.

THE GLACIER LINE UPDATE:

 

03-22-2015    Man I busted bootie today!  I worked on the lower staging area for the better part of seven hours, evening cleaning up, and managed to get the entire track in place!  I still have to connect it to the Monaco spur and complete block 11 to a turntable or transfer table.  I’m dead tired and sore from all the cutting, drilling, fitting and cleaning but I’m really proud how this is finally coming along!

          In addition, Connie painted more detail onto the backdrop in the area of Cataract and Rising Wolf. 

 

Here is the video from this weekend with the train running and a very excited little boy.

 

No photos this time...

The Tacoma model train show on Saturday was sort of a bust, but you just never know. I was able to swing by Tacoma Trains nearby hobby shop for some scenery stuff, so the extra miles were okay with me.

To run my own op sessions, all I need to do is get my car cards all completed, get an operating concept figured out for train flow, then get two (or maybe three but probably just two) guys over for an op session. I've invited the two guys who helped me with the build (one guy was there for most of the benchwork install after I'd built it, drew up the original track plan wer mostly stuck with and worked with me on all the track laying). I promised them they'd be invited to the first op session, which to me was only fair for the work they put in. We haven't figured out a day yet but it's coming soon!

I cut plywood yesterday for the back corners, so I could build up and complete the scenery independent of the layout itself, then just drop the completed areas into those corners without having to reach way into the back to do scenery work.

Thought you would never ask. Now I ca announce the arrival today of two very good purchases bought from OGR members. This makes 5 for me in the last 6-7 months and all have been very satisfactory, to say the least.  One was a Lionel 2056 which is very much as advertised-looks and runs good !!  Fast service, the other is special. Waited a week for the USPS to get it here. Tracking number didn't work. The train was a "City of Denver" 1934 752 set from a list a member submitted several weeks ago. Someone missed out on getting a really nice, collectible train at a reasonable price. It has a repaint job and needs new vestibule wheels but is clean and good shape. Now I have to get some 072 curves shoe horned in to a loop of track so I can run it !! Found that out after I bought it. I must say that dealing with OGR members, so far, is more fun than da Bay. May it continue !!   Jim P.

Goshawk,

That video made my day!  Just like it made your son's day!

I just posted my latest Layout Series Video, I hope you guys enjoy. My Youtube channel is named Dans trains. Please like and subscribe and don't forget to leave a comment! Thanks!

 I forgot I had some American flags in the garden. I took one inside for use on the flag mans shack vs the cross-bucks, and painted the flag mans shacks wood roof weathered green. Did the tool box lid, and door panel inserts too. I'm thinking about painting the base edge, to look like a streets cement curb. That & moss bushes around the shacks baseboards. I think I'm going to do a "prototypical" drop and run some power poles to the holes for power in the shacks roof peak.

 Glued, stained(ink this time) and painted, two more dowel & skewer tell tales. Gave the 3 done an upper crossbar for running power.

 Then I dumped a whole bottle of Evapo-rust into a plastic wash pan and threw in a dozen pressure contactors, pole holders, lock-ons, and a set of rusty MARX M-10005 passenger cars into it. Returned 30 min later for a loosening of the heavy stuff, and took a nap. 2 hours later most things were looking pretty. Most...I had planned a repaint to stainless for a Crusader copy I'm doing anyhow, but when I got back I found the Evapo-rust, normally safe, had acted like a paint stripper, but only on certain portions of the paint also? Stranger still, the cars are not from the same set, nor is it a left side, right side, or rusty thing, but only one side of each car "stripped". I'm wondering if it wasn't a electro/chemical reaction lifting the paint on either the left or right side of the wash-pan.

 I knew MARX paint can be weak, I knew it could happen, but didn't really expect it. I had done so many later ones with no issues.

  They get to see real paint stripper next anyhow.

 

Oops ....forgot to submit....I went and ate some steak, and decided I didn't like the roof. Used a semi-dry brush and a flat red, leaving the green/brown poking thru.  

 

 

I've been making a big dang mess lately...

Progmess - the clutter made during progress

 

Excellent example you have there!.

Dan,

I liked your video and subscribed.  Neat way to show your space, your plans, and what your trains.

More work on the "Poor Man's Rectifier"...

 

All the fans and stacks that won't be covered by the rectifier housings were removed, the top of the cab roof cut flat and the shell sanded down for gluing.

 

The former battery pack housings cemented into place, and the new roof (spare bit of clear styrene) cemented down.

 

Bits of scrap styrene cemented inside the shell to provide backing when I fill in the holes with body putty! 

 

Mitch

Thanks Mark! He was very excited! He had fun helping where he could.

I am getting close to starting laying track.  Finished my home made bridges, painted them and put them in place.  The advantage of the bridges is I can make them any length I want rather than being married to the commercially available standard lengths.  After painting them a dark gray, I dry brushed them with a Rustoleum rust colored primer to give them an aged look. 

 

Incidentally, I pre-cut much to much bridge material so if anyone needs me to make them a few custom length girder bridges, contact me at my profile email address.

 

The green paint on the layout deck is strictly a base coat and will be mostly painted over as the layout progresses.

 

I have found out one thing, the mess I make working 3 hours takes at least 4 hours to clean up!

 

Also, about a couple of weeks ago, my wife, who truly supports my hobby, asked me if I had purchased any trains recently?  I replied, "Absolutely not, I have all the trains I need and I am now concentrating on the layout".  In the past week I have purchased $560.00 worth of trains on the Forum!  When I saw the listings, I just couldn't do without them.

 

Jim

Thanks Mark!

 

Dan

 The Family Diner, which started out as a Plasticville school, is complete.  Using some Design Preservation and Ameritowne components, I created a building for Nicole's Java Hut.  The sign and decals for Nicole's came from a Walthers Cornerstone kit. My next project is to transform a Plasticville Hobo Jungle kit into a salvage yard/cab company.

Big day. Went to the LHS and spent a small fortune on 072 curves and tonight worked on putting them in my #1 outer loop.  Have to realign the #2 loop for more clearance but no big deal. This will allow me to run my newly acquired M1000 on my layout. Never liked the old sharp curves anyhow. Also called TTender an ordered new wheels for the cars. Several are missing and a few have zinc rot and are chipped. The engine runs good on a straight stretch.  Thanks for the lead on TTender. Great guy, amazing to deal with him. I will get more parts from him. The M1000 is an amazing machine. Really well made and amazing engineering.

Looking for Lionel Tubular Track  ???  My friend 'Ray' at "House of Trains" in Hoodsport, WA (near Shelton) has tons of it..  All kinds of it.  Brand new!  Don't let the "Track disappearance fear" scare you away...   Authorized Lionel repair guy too.  Sharper than a tack.  Has thousands of parts in inventory !  Look up Ray's place on Google-- it's there!

And give him your wants !!  You'll be glad you did! 

(This community-minded message brought to you by your fellow OGR buddy: KRK !)

 

Cheers!

Those tin M10005 cars got some citrus stripper a good  bath, & then got pickled in a "rust-save" solution early yesterday. Just got done using some soft scotch-brite to "sand". I might remove most of the soft black before hitting it with an etching primer.

I want to see it later when the sun comes up to decide.

 I could see the pre-topcoat "paint cut-ins" by tonight at least. 

Started laying roadbed on my around the room layout. Using Woodland Scenics foam this time around. Normally I use cork. Must say it goes down very easy. I use "Projects" to secure it. On most my curves don't even need to temporarily pin it to hold in place. Scenery has always been the slowest thing for me it seems. In fact if I get to ballast it will be first layout out of four I have ballasted.

The North Carolina division saw progress over the last week. The long loop on the main level has been completed through. Power is gang wired to allow all tracks to be powered . Even with the temp wiring, the DCS with rev L TIU seems to work well with the one locomotive I have with DCS command here. Legacy works well also. No communication issues experienced. There are a few spots at joints in the curves where some dips and undulations need some fine tuning but trains are running through. Curves handle a PS-1 J class and C&O 2-6-6-2 mallet from Lionel. T Have two yards laid out and some buildings on elevations set for planning purpose. Some photos follow

 

 The layout space is 11' by 30'

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Yard on the main. a board for the upper level is in place and the large loop runs through the yard around the near end and returns under the upper level to the bridge at the far end.

 

 Main yard and station in this area.

 

 Lionel Truss Bridge. Nicely detailed and comes assembled and supplied with piers.

 

 

 Curves for the Main level main lines and yard lead

 

 Near end of layout with city area.

 

 Transformer stand. This is a room esssentials TV cart from Target

 

LIRR; how do you reach the far end of the layout near the window?

Hi Spence. Thanks for your interest in the layout

 

There is an access area in the middle of the layout at that end. If you look in the third photo on the left side you can see a walk way starting on the left and reaching that open area. The main level is at 42 inches in height and the upper level will be at 50 inches above the floor. In the area where the walkway is , there will be a bridge crossing for the upper level , At 50 inches its an easy duckunder. I also have a secretary's office chair with rollers on it so you can sit and roll under the bridge. set to its lowest level, I can get under the layout in a sitting position which is handy for the wiring to come. The tables around the wall are 36 inches wide on the main and 18 inches on the upper level. In the area with the turnaround, that is about 80 inches wide and the upper level will be wider at this point. There is middle of the table access hear. In the front of the layout furthest from the window, the layout is on a table that is 7 feet by 10 feet. I chose my dimensions considering the accessibility for construction and maintenance requirements .

LIRR,

I like your planning for accessibility.  I for one on longer want to crawl around under a layout, and I never was one to climb up on one.  You have an excellent workable layout.  I also like your use of the TV stand for your control station.  I don't know how you plan your wiring, but this also allows accessibility.

Interesting, I rarely ever see layouts running through the center of a window like that. I have to admit I thought long and hard before putting a staging yard right through the lower edge of window just like that on my own layout.

Great work so far!

It's raining today....so ..I applied Kadee # 805 couplers to my new Cambria and Indiana Railroad hoppers and N5 caboose. Now all I have to wait for is a Custom Paint Job on my C&I switcher by Christine Braden. I just saw photos pre decals....and it looks great!