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henning's or Chuck Sartor at 'O'nly 3 rail in Denver.  There's a back story, but the short of it is that he may have original parts. I am not experienced enough to know of anyone closer to Florida.

If it is in good condition and no loose wheels or gears and no missing parts, you could find a forum member closer to you to service it and rewire it if needed.

Usually it's best to send it to someone like these to shops and have whatever it needs replaced and serviced. Then, you can run it with confidence for another 90 years.

well if it at least creeps, then it sounds like just some simple maintenance may do the trick. I don't know your ability, so no insult intended.  These old trains are usually pretty simple to work on. Are the contact rollers nice and shiny, or dull/rusty? That would keep the locomotive from running well. Take your time, and look the engine over. take pictures, as you go. Take the engine shell off, and take the brush plate off, and examine the brushes. They may need replaced, or just cleaned. the communicator face should be shiny like a new penny. a pencil eraser works good for this. a light oiling of the moving parts helps loosen things up. Give it a try, and you'll be able to say that you brought it back to life. If you don't feel able, that's OK too!

As Dave/Steamer mentioned if it creeps you probably in good shape. These locomotives are pretty tough so unless you drop it you probably will be fine. I've had many locomotives that started off either not running or creeping and after 1-3 hours of cleaning the wheels and rollers, they come back to life. I am a fan of Goo Gone for cleaning wheels, rollers and brush plates. If you use modern locomotives that have traction tires, you need to be careful of the Goo Gone being left on your track as it may cause premature deterioration of the traction tires. PAINTING!? As far as painting that is up to you too, but I would recommend keeping your original paint. You have a beautiful/classic locomotive that looks like a classic locomotive! If you want any help contact me off the list, my email is in the profile section. 

Tom 

agreed on keeping the original paint. tools? couple screwdrivers should be all you need. it's not running right, so take a shot.If it doesn't get better, you can still send it off.you wouldn't be the first to try a repair, and have to send it to a pro. but if you do make it better, before long you'll be looking for other busted/rusted trains to fix up.

I have that engine they are decent and quiet runners, like other poster mention a screwdriver is all you need. 3 screws hold shell on 1 in smokestack and 2 under rear truck which can be unscrewed without truck removal. There is a lever you can see in back of cab when moved makes train go forward and backwards but shell easily comes off by lifting front up  and going back up and sliding past that lever.

To remove motor front truck 1 screw and steam chest 1 screw, motor has 2 screws holding to frame located in the front  and its back portion is slotted to fit into frame.

Then the brush plate is easy to clean by removing 2 screws cant miss them, with eraser and or emery cloth clean the 2 small carbon brushes making them level when set on flat surface, the copper commutator they ride on can be cleaned same way.The shiny steel shaft that is in the middle of it and goes thru the brush plate benefits from a very tiny drop of oil after brush plate is put back on and also the same where it protrudes out the backside.

The roller pickups should have gunk cleaned off them and the copper strip that hold each one should have a slight bend downwards the keep rollers in contact with middle track rail.

The cowcatcher can be grinded off and spare bought online painted gloss black and epoxied back on.

The frame and shell if mine i would leave built and painted around 1932 has lots of love and looks nice in my opinion as is especially if you intend to run it and enjoy it .

Thats if you choose to do this yourself.

Last edited by Dieseler

Gentlemen,

   Now Guns (GRJ) is going to send a hit squad after me for this, however, GRJ not only repaired my old Lionel 249 Tin Plate Engine and Tender, he upgraded her and installed ERR in her, and I now control my 249 Tin Plate ERR with my Legacy Cab2, this is now the coolest Lionel 249ERR Gun metal Gray engine on earth, maybe if you hog Tie Guns, he will consent to repair & upgrade your Tin Plate for you also  I will be looking for the Hit Squad any day now.

PCRR/Dave

The Incredible Gun Metal Gray Lionel original Tin Plate 249 UpGraded with ERR, LED Lighting and all.  Some of Gun Runner Johns's finest work.

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DSCN1285

 

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Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

Guns,

   Holy cow you are sending a Masaud 5 man Hit Squad after me, I was expecting the Mafia guys, now this is just over the Top Criminal!   At least employ the American's, my buddy President Trump, will not be happy that you are employing foreign help.  This is just so wrong in so many ways.

Steamer Help I am in Big trouble!

PCRR/Dave

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
southern Railfan posted:

I was working on screwing in the back set of trucks when I started to screw it wouldn't stop the screw broke of in the hole and there is no I can get it out. Can I send it in and get that fixed?

I would think one of the repairman would have whats called an easy out.

Have had that happen in various thing besides toy trains. If it protrudes out just the tiniest bit you can slot it and possibly unscrew it out. Have done this in past.

Another trick is to drill into it with small drill if at all possible and then JB weld something into it and unscrew it out.

 

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