Whistle Keeps Blowing

I used exclusively screw base 18 volt bulbs. I find it easier to get bases for them.

Thanks Barry. Just ordered 4 18 volt bulbs. Hope this solves my issues. Hope finding a base for them will be easy also!

Ordered these - http://www.bulbtown.com/432_Mi...b_E10_Base_p/432.htm

Stupid question - is the socket/base to screw the bulbs into a standard size or...? Sure hope these things will work! 

is the socket/base to screw the bulbs into a standard size

Yes, it is.

Thanks Barry. I've got lightbulbs and filters coming my way to play around with. 

Another quick question - going back to the earlier post on page 1 regarding lack of any major change with/without a new-ish MTH lighted passenger car on the track. I would have thought the bulbs in the cars (or the switch tower accessory I had hooked up to track power, now removed) had 18 volt bulbs in them. Wrong? 

I couldn't read the label on your light socket, might want to check it now. The "standard" code it should be labeled as, is an E10. Same as the bulbs you ordered. There are other sockets, pretty close in diameter, both larger and smaller, used in other, "non-train" applications.(like EXIT signs for instance) Adapters do exist for E10bulbs into E12bases, etc., but a proper base is just as cheap or cheaper.

 I think ideally the lamp should be statically located on the TUI outputs, before the track.

The extra light bothers some folks, paint it, build a cover, etc

Here are the sockets I just exchanged at radio shack - didn't get an E10 and exchanged for these (e10). Hope the bulbs come soon. Also will try the filters. Hope this solves it. Another issue - no +/- markings on the screw terminals. Anyone have an idea? Does it matter (I would imagine it does when plugged into the +/- TIU output)

no +/- markings on the screw terminals

No worries - bulbs don't have polarity.

Had a feeling that white socket was an E12. It will not matter which lead goes where. An incandescent bulb does not care which leads are used where. Most often the threaded portion receives ground, but that is because many dc circuits use chassis grounds, those bases have mounts that connect the chassis to the threaded portion without wire. Putting the ground on the threads side is not a hard and fast rule and the bulb will light equally as well either way.    

Note: A new style LED replacement bulb would likely have to be properly polarized before use, and it likely wouldn't work for a filter here. I just wanted you to realize this as LEDs replace normal bulbs in the future, there is a difference.  

Barry/Adriatic

Thanks again for the help. Electronics weren't and haven't been my forte! Appreciate it. Hope to report favorable results within a few days. 

This has absolutely no bearing on the topic!  Since the purpose of the bulb is to supply a resistive load for termination of the track signal, the LED is a non-starter here.

Anyone able to suggest a fast and RELIABLE supplier for an 18 volt light bulb? The place I ordered from is now saying it is backordered and a quick search on them shows them less then reputable (guess I should've checked that first but...)

Been to every LHS (but one), Home Depot, hardware store, electronics store, etc in the county with no luck. Suggestions/links appreciated. 

I have a quantity of #432 18V bulbs, they have the E10 base.

Send me an email to my profile email address and I can fix you up.

John - Email coming. Thanks!

LED replacements with E-10 bases are sold all over now. Pushed as a long lasting replacement with not much "big" mention of factors other than the max voltage and light emitted. Considering the OPs lack of experience, and that he is in purchase mode, I thought he would appreciate a little info about them and that they do differ from normal bulbs that share the same base style. After consulting "counter help" its easy for a novice to walk out of stores with LEDs(or an E-12 base[sorry IVRR]).

 "The best teachers assume the student knows nothing" (not that Im actually qualified)  

My point here is that the LED replacement is not a suitable substitute for the incandescent bulb in this application.

Coupled with the fact that I've already sent out the bulbs he needs, I think the issue is resolved.

Appreciate the help. The 18 volt bulbs are scheduled to arrive tomorrow and I sincerly hope they work. If the 18 volt bulbs and/or filters don't work, I've dusted off and unboxed my conventional controllers to go back to conventional operation. I'll deal with minor speed/power fluctuations. 

I received a tip via email regarding the Radio Shack #52 14.4 volt bulbs being a suitable "temporary" test. Me being the "willing to try pretty much anything at this point" person, I took a ride over to radio shack and got a pair but saw very little to no improvement in signal strength but couldn't get the whistle to stick. The soft keys were repeating constantly as the have and signal was still running from 7-9 with a few 10s. Not sure if the 14.4 is or is not a suitable work around for temporary occasions but I figured it couldn't hurt to try. 

Last night I again disassembled both loops and made two loops, both consisting over 0-27 and 0-42 180* turns at each end respectively with one 35" extra long straight in between the 180*s. Nothing more, nothing less. About as simple as a loop(s) as you can get. Also tightened all pins/track joints. Haven't tested it yet. Hope success happens. Have had layout using the same equipment for years on larger or smaller, more complex, more simple layouts and never an issue. Hope to change it.