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LOL....Because Nassau has a great deal on a Legacy Pilot Mohawk and I am not into non painted locos....This would be a great chance to get a unique RR name/cab# on a beautiful Mohawk design for a great price.......Who says some of us are not addicted????
 
Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:
Why paint a pilot loco?

Wheres Lee at? He'd do it!

 

Last edited by BigBoy4014

Sam,

 

It may be a matter of semantics to some folks, but I think Lionel markets these locos as "pilots" rather than "undecorated", because the pilots are not quite "paint ready".  Specifically, I'm pretty certain they come with a clearcoat-style finish that doesn't readily accept paints.  So there's definitely some prep work in store for anyone planning to tackle a customization project like this.  Just sayin'... 

 

David

The clear coat is there. But I think the thickness of the clear coat, will be more of an issue than a compatible topcoat. Even water based paints have come a long way. I suspect its clear is on fairly thick, because you can still see good detail in clear. And just painting over it would dull 3d detail more with the unnecessary paint there.

Unless its a thin clear, I think your basically going to need a normal repaint.  

I understand about the clear coat. Long time ago, I built a Bowser Challenger and before painting it, it was blasted with a sand gun to "rough it" up to accept paint better. It was painted in the Grayhound scheme and it came out great, A Japanese collector was ecstatic to purchase it from me for a great price...I think I still have the gun and some extremely fine sand somewhere in my storage...I thought the same can be done for the Mohawk. IF the Lionel pilot units had blackened drivers, I'd do it my self but the bare metal wheels, to look perfect, present a problem for me. Anyway, if you guys think the clear coat may be a problem and a sand gun will not do it, then be it...Charlie at Nassau will not be happy

I'm not sure the clear coat would be a problem. I have painted a number of clear coated brass engines with no problems. That was before urethanes were around so it all depends what Lionel used. As for prices, I hope the discount is really good because a good painter would likely charge at least 300 bucks. To do it right the whole drive assembly would have to disassembled. Some of us have bought new painted Legacy Mohawks for between 700-900 bucks.

 

Pete

Last edited by Norton
Originally Posted by BigBoy4014:

I am interested in purchasing a Legacy Mohawk pilot model that I would like painted. Any body can help with where/who can do it for a reasonable price in a good time frame? Thx in Advance..

Check out David Long of Kelly Creek Backshop (pelicanrider-at-gmail.com).

 

Here's done work for at least two of us particular (peculiar?) collectors.

 

 

There are some more pictures of his wonderful work here: Google Image Search - Kelly Creek Backshop

 

Thanks,

Mario

 

Oh, gosh, no. The point is...never mind. I received my Pilot Mohawk yesterday from Nassau. Not opened yet (been busy). There will be no paint, of course.

 

But, besides that, a NYC Mohawk is a NYC Mohawk - lettered for anything else it's

just...odd - unless you present it as "My short line bought a couple second-hand";

the TH&B did have a couple of second-hand NYC Hudsons.

 

Really - get a painted one and re-letter it. Easy job. TMCC versions are really nice (have one).

 

Not my business - except that you brought it up.

 

 

 

 

It is easy enough to remove the numbers on a painted model and reletter. All of the pictures of the pilot version I have seen have no numbers on the headlight nor number plaque under the headlight. Both of them would require extra time and effort to recreate. Also where are you going to get a sound board with announcements for the new cab number? Small details to consider.

 

Pete

Last edited by Norton
Originally Posted by Pingman:

Sam, what railroad are you considering?

Here's a few singles; maybe even a ground rule double and a walk off home run, as well (H10 Mikado?; you can grab a pilot truck from a Berk).

 

 

 

 

H10 Mikado

New Haven 2

New Haven

T&P

 

Didn't Mohawk 3001 stand in for a T&P Mountain?

 

I'm jealous... nothing like a clean slate to do what you wish.

 

Thanks,

Mario

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Big Boy 4014 just a few weeks ago everyone was telling people not to buy trains as an investment. now don't paint it as you'll ruin the value????  lets see your money your train do what you want. did lee willis ask for advice before painting a prr T1 union pacific. he's happy thats what the hobby is about.

i have painted many brass locos without stripping the clear coat, unless its super thick i would paint over it. since you painted ho locos i'd try it myself if i was you, you can always strip it if the paint isn't satisfactory. you can buy a lot of paint stripper and paint for what someone will charge to paint it. plus you get the sense of accomplishment.

Lionel Cab Forward Legacy version ------   my first repainted engine I have done . Maybe 3 to 4 hours of painting due to 2nd  and some 3rd coats .    I wanted something othIMG_3939er than black .   Not hard to do really . I plan to also paint a Lionel  Y-3  Legacy  " Pilot " version I bought recently at 50% off list price 

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Last edited by SteamPossum
That is what this Hobby is about for me, I will never restrict myself to any rules. I make my own, but I DO appreciate everyone's and I mean everyone's constructive  opinion...
 
Originally Posted by CentralFan1976:
There's something to be said for having one-of-one.

Uniquely yours has its own intrinsic value; you do what you want, make it your own and put it on a pedestal for all to drool over.

 

Last edited by BigBoy4014
Originally Posted by Pingman:

Sam, what railroad are you considering?

I was thinking, Oh forgive me for I may have sinned again, Southern Pacific with the swoosh letters. But I think I may just pass on the Mohawk merely because it has no steam whistle effect and for the money I may be able to get another used/new Legacy steam with steam whistle.....

Help by talking him out of it, lol.

Urethane on lacquer is mostly a go in my experience. 

Etching primer can have issues going on top some paints, including other primers. But on bare metal, I love it. A shallow crackle has formed on me before when used topcoating other paint.. Its a problem that appears long term, after a few years.

For many of us, part of this hobby includes more than just taking stuff out of the box and running it as is, especially at the prices of this stuff these days. Find a great deal on something, and kit bash it to what ever you want for hundreds less. 

You shoulda seen the box of left over parts after I modified my brand new Sunset F7 ABBA set. I think I coulda built another engine with all the parts after I was done.

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