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As I mentioned, I was lucky enough to find this Lionel 4-6-0 carcass that would provide me with several parts for this rebuild, as well as another one in the works (I won't be needing the electronics, in case anybody's interested ):

Lionel 4-6-0

Practically everything had to be modified, mostly made smaller and less clunky-looking.  The engineer's side main rod and valve gear is now mated to the PSC crosshead and cylinder:

 

valve gear

A little bit of tweaking had to be done, but it works and actually looks better than I thought (feared) it might!  Clever eyes may have noticed that this is one engine that will not be running around in neutral: I attached the radius rod (topmost horizontal rod) to the expansion link not at the pivot point, as with most (all?) 3-rail models, but at the bottom, simulating an engine in full-forward.  When it runs the radius rod has a back-and-forth motion, as it should.  Very cool to watch and well worth the effort!  Now, hopefully, the other side should go a little more quickly...

 

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  • Lionel 4-6-0
  • valve gear
Last edited by 49Lionel

The tender got shortened by about 1 1/2", and lowered by about 1/4".  Here it is, complete and ready for the paint shop:

 

P6200046

P6200045

After I cemented the pieces of the tender back together, I filled in the gaps with Squadron putty (not actually too happy with how that worked), then sanded it.  The seams may still be visible after it's painted, but real tenders often had patches visible, too, so it's good enough for me.  Brass handrails and a ladder really dress it up.  I'm very happy with the overall size, much more in keeping with the locomotive.

 

I also shortened the drawbar by about an inch (4 scale feet!) and not only does the gap look much better, it still gets around O42 curves with no trouble.

 

In the first photo you can see my attempt to bring some life to the front of the cab.  I glued on door frames from strips of very thin wood, and an overhanging cab roof from some left-over plastic.

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Images (2)
  • P6200046
  • P6200045
Last edited by 49Lionel

With your comment on my thread, on which I was considering using this WBB tender shell modifified as yours, but lowered lower (may not be possible on this frame),

starting on it, rather than musing, let me see that building or using an available

Lionel Vanderbilt shell on the WBB frame, with that sound system, is not practical. 

Will see what I can do about shortening and lowering, as much as possible, mine. 

Complete and ready for the paint shop, minus a few last details (the tender is just waiting for the final clear coat):

Left

The smokebox front is from a Rivarossi 4-6-0 I was lucky enough to find some parts from.  I used Squadron putty to modify the contours to match the original.  As we speak it's getting a coat of primer - so far so good!

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  • Left
Originally Posted by 49Lionel:

Complete and ready for the paint shop, minus a few last details (the tender is just waiting for the final clear coat):

Left

The smokebox front is from a Rivarossi 4-6-0 I was lucky enough to find some parts from.  I used Squadron putty to modify the contours to match the original.  As we speak it's getting a coat of primer - so far so good!

Looking good!    It's everything the WBB 4-6-0 could've been and more.

 

You've gotten awful close to "Jack up whistle, replace locomotive" though...

 

Rusty

Originally Posted by Rusty Traque:
Originally Posted by 49Lionel:

Complete and ready for the paint shop, minus a few last details (the tender is just waiting for the final clear coat):

Left

The smokebox front is from a Rivarossi 4-6-0 I was lucky enough to find some parts from.  I used Squadron putty to modify the contours to match the original.  As we speak it's getting a coat of primer - so far so good!

Looking good!    It's everything the WBB 4-6-0 could've been and more.

 

You've gotten awful close to "Jack up whistle, replace locomotive" though...

 

Rusty

Many times I was tempted to go even further - it was a slippery slope.  For example, the fireman's side running boards aren't in quite the right place - do I cut them off and put on new running boards?  I opted not to do that.  I went about as far as my skills would allow, and maybe just a little past...

Last edited by 49Lionel

Thought you might like to see a clip of the valve gear in action:

 

Putting it in full forward wasn't a difficult change, and I bet it could be done to many locos.  To me, it really enhances the appearance of the model to not be cruising along with the valve gear on center.

 

I don't know if you can see the coal load in the tender, but it's 100% authentic VBR coal I found along the actual right of way - really kind of brings it home for me.  Last, here's a pic of the engine with matching caboose I bashed last fall:

P7230004 

I hope that posting this project will encourage others to do the same!

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  • P7180001
  • P7230004
Videos (1)
P7180002
Last edited by 49Lionel

What a huge difference. You did an amazing job on the loco., and the caboose! I'm still trying to finish a caboose in the time it took you to do the loco.

 

I've been following this topic regularly, and you've given me the courage to take mine another step closer to what I want. Purchased a pilot and some headlights to try out. I'm tempted to do as you did, and make it completely the way I want it, but my skillset isn't as advanced as yours.

 

You really did a great job on it. Thanks for posting.

Late to the party, but glad I showed.

 

 You've made me notice something. One thing about my own fickleness that has eluded me my whole life. A good crosshead, rod and valve set is needed to drag me from toy to scale mentality more so than anything. Flat silver plates for crossheads, don't do anything but make me want to run it fast enough I cant see it anymore.

 

Nice looking machine 49L. 

Last edited by Adriatic

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