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Reply to "0-8-0 recommendations?"

John, my original intent was to use the engine as a switcher and also as a pusher or helper on grades. It started out as a Wabash and was repainted to a B&A. Looking back. I should have just sold it at a loss. I know the switchers are set up a bit different. They should crawl. Step 200 is equal to 100 in a road engine. When setup as a steam switcher. When used in helper service the steps readjust to match a rd. Engine when setup as Train in the remote. Sounded all good. Except these engines didn’t come with Legacy boards. They used a BEMC board that are used in the S gauge Flyer trains. I found that out when I added the engine. It ran way to fast. Somewhere on the screen there was a mention of Flyer. Read a post on a new Lionmaster with issues. Then figured out what was up with it. The same board might have found it’s way into the Shays. They either couldn’t produce the previous Legacy boards from the other run that ran super slow or they had an abundance of these. I thought I was buying the previous run Legacy with the new added tether. Impossible to stall. Just like the B6 0-6-0  If you do a search. The Lionmaster N&W Class A had the same issues. The throttle control just ramps up way to fast. On the switcher. You end up with about 4 usable steps out of 200. Very hard to control with a spinning Cab thumb wheel. I had the best luck using a DCS remote.

Running on a continuous layout it’s a nice little engine. Just not a good switcher. The original Odyssey version runs better at almost half the price. Curious as to how the New catalog 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 switchers are going to run. I agree on the B6. Best switcher I ever ran at a very good price.

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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