ADCX Rob posted:M. Mitchell Marmel posted:That motor now runs three times as fast, and dead cool.
Most folks are trying to slow down their Williams diesels & electrics.
That's merely a matter of adjusting the nut behind the controls. 
Remember: Resistance is futile-if less than one ohm. 
Miggy posted:If quicker is good, then Faster=better!! lolol Mitch! Capacitor for the light flicker as well? I-wanna-be-faster-and-cooler (like my women faster and hot, thou... but I digress, bad miglet-bad)
Capacitors will help with light flicker as well, yes.
Miggy posted:So, does the 1.5 volt dc battery with a button, run the whistle or bell as a plan d"?
positive to the center rail? (ty and salute)
Not exactly. Briefly, here's how pre/postwar whistles and horns work:
In the tender/loco, there's a whistle/horn relay. Under normal AC track voltage, the relay vibrates (which is why, for example, a whistle tender will hum at rest when voltage is applied).
When the whistle/horn control is activated, a diode provides half-wave DC to the track. This serves to close the points on the relay.
For a whistle, this delivers AC power to the whistle motor. For a horn, this delivers DC power from the onboard battery to the horn.
Depending on the transformer and the locomotive, you may also see a bit of additional speed as the transformer compensates for the additional voltage sucked down by the whistle motor.
On newer electronic whistles and horns, the sensing circuit senses the half-wave DC and delivers power to the sound circuits (and/or sends DC voltage to the whistle motor). This circuit is sensitive to which phase the half-wave is, which is why, if a whistle/horn doesn't work properly, reversing the wires to the track often helps.
Mitch
