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Reply to "AC engines on DC powered tracks?"

You'll drool over something new eventually. It doesn't mean you have to dive in, but it's hard not give a head nod at some of the new eventually.  I'm PostWar oriented and still run conventional power. I only have a few modernn era items (80s-today). But I do try not lock myself into decisions based on the age of the tech I might choose to do a job, I want to consider many paths before I decide. 

There isn't anything magical about boards. They do the same basic jobs they did 75 years ago only without moving parts or the size. E.g. a transistor is just a tiny, silent, relay and they make a stupidly HUGE variety of specs to choose from too.

What's cheap, easy, or there on hand often wins over the best of plans though 😁

I run two old Radio Shack units, 4a&4.5a constant 12vdc, a 60s Allstate automotive 8a battery charger with a nicely working self reset internal breaker, a coin op/video game's universal dc supply (+12,-12,9, +5,-5 &+3v) and BR rectified dc off an American Flyer ac unit. If my power goes out there are two car batteries to run off of. 😜   Ive ran off a 4a dc power supply for an electric food cooler and via automotive DC to AC converters. (I have 9 layouts, most micros under 36"sq.).... and off a 24vac 4a hippie neon(?) lamp driver

 

Where I need throttle; one or two diodes eat .75-1.5v or they are bypassed by one on/off spst toggle. There are rows of these toggles along side a chain of diodes (or diode chain circle, tab to tab on a 11pos rotory sw. if you don't have 40+ toggles kicking around like I did..and only 1 rotory) It works better than you might imagine. Any switch up is a boost, any down it slows, throwing 4or 5 with a palmed hand, no problem. How long is your hand? (plus each end has a 3pos toggle and off ability. So three ways to kill power fast 

 

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