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Reply to "All Nation/dcc"

Roy is right about the open frame motors. You probably have 3 main paths with motors:

  1. If it has open-frame and you want to keep it, you'll need a high current DCC decoder that's designed for G scale. I prefer Loksound but that's totally personal, TCS WOWsound and Soundtraxx offer great solutions that are readily available. You'll need to check they fit in this smallish loco as some are quite large.
  2. Swap to a readily available used Pittman motor from an O scale loco, or another modern can motor which may have lower current draw. In this case you may be able to use the "medium-sized" decoder e.g. Loskound 5 L instead of XL.  
  3. Upgrade to a low-current coreless motor that will let you use "HO sized" lower current decoders. You can but the motor and do the work yourself, or there are vendors such as Right-O'-Way who can provide a complete drive upgrade

In all cases but 1 and 2 especially, it's important to make sure your loco will always get to wheel slip under load before the motor stalls. 

The actual work would be something like this (excuse me if you're already used to DCC installs):

  1. Swap out the motor and any driveline parts if you go that route
  2. Plan out where all the new pieces will fit in the loco shell/tank and the wiring paths.
  3. Add any lighting you want. LEDs are good these days with suitable resisitors, but incandescent lamps still work in metal body shells where heat's not an issue. Consider adding small plugs and sockects in all leads that connect betwen the loco chassis and the shell for easy removal of the shell later 
  4. Ideally set up and test the decoder on the bench prior to install
  5. Install the decoder and speaker if required, connect all lighting etc.
  6. Have fun!!

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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