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Reply to "Another LED constant lighting question for passenger cars . . ."

Here are a few pictures of the revised version of the PCB for my lighting project(s).  These pictures were taken with my camera so they are a little better than the iPad pictures in the conversion thread.

Top and bottom of version 1.0.2.

Pic 1 - PCB Ver 1.0.2

 

Comparing length of this board to the original version.

Pic 2 - PCB Ver 1.0.2

 

Comparing width.

Pic 3 - PCB Ver 1.0.2

 

PCB populated with same components as original version.  I will say it was more work to solder the components to the board this time as it was harder to hold everything in place and apply the heat and solder.

Pic 4 - PCB Ver 1.0.2

 

Even though it was harder to populate the PCB it does work. 

Pic 5 - PCB Ver 1.0.2

 

I was a little concerned, but both connectors do fit on the revised PCB.  However, I plan on using only one connector on the remaining boards.  I will solder the supply wires directly to the PCB's AC IN pads along with a PTC to protect the wires.  Since the PCB is attached to the floor of the cars' with double sided tape, one connector for the DC OUT wires will be sufficient to allow me to completely detach the roof if needed in the future.  Paint the roofs white maybe?

 

Okay, breaks over, back to soldering.  Well maybe later.

 

Edited***  I ended up using connectors for both the AC input and the DC output.  Since I am using the original wiring from the wheel sets in the PE cars, it was just easier than trying to solder the wires directly to the board.

Attachments

Images (5)
  • Pic 1 - PCB Ver 1.0.2
  • Pic 2 - PCB Ver 1.0.2
  • Pic 3 - PCB Ver 1.0.2
  • Pic 4 - PCB Ver 1.0.2
  • Pic 5 - PCB Ver 1.0.2
Last edited by GregM

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