Tom Tee posted:Lumber, ahhhhh. It think it would easier to convince you of my religion or politics. I frequently get push back on this. Simply put; I do NOT use dimensional lumber for decking support, decking framework or module components at all. Exception is at bump outs.
For framework I use Maple/Birch shop grade 23/32" (3/4") plywood. I usually have it slit on the yard's saw into thirteen 3 1/2" X 8' strips. SO take what ever price you pay for quality hard wood 3/4" plywood and divide it by 13 and you have a rather economical cost of frame work material.
I do not use any screws or bolts for building frame work. It is only glued together. I do use a pneumatic brad gun to tack the material together. Tightbond III for perfectly flat fully touching/contact surfaces. Polyurethane premium adhesive for rough irregular surfaces.
I use dowels when dry assembling so when adhesive is applied everything will be where it belongs.
Clamps, yes I do have a large assortment of clamps. Pipe clamps, bar clamps, C clamps and squeeze clamps.
If you want to see how curved benchwork side frames are made visit a curved staircase manufacture or look at my photo below:
Clamping up a valley module above.
Cutting the drop angle cross members from a single sheet of plywood below.
No scrap at all. All "left over material" becomes either risers or cleats. As you cut "L"s out of a sheet the long legs get shorter, the short legs get longer as you cut into the body of the sheet of plywood. Simple remedy, flip and weave in sequential pieces as viewed in lower photo. Note the grain.
Finished module below. All my work was in modules due to possible relocation. This layout had to be moved within four years.
The same drop center valley module side frames can be used for either an inside or outside corner.
When necessary you can steam 3/4" plywood and wrap it around a paint can.
Thanks Tom. My other choice was to use poplar from a saw mill done the road. Not cheap but it's straight. I am going to look into the birch plywood.
