Big_Boy_4005 posted:I've seen a number of comments here that I disagree with already.
Glue, not for benchwork. I have been able to recycle some of my lumber multiple times over a 30 year period because I don't glue it. That saves money and time in the long run. If you just assemble it with simple drywall screws, that's plenty, especially when you get the top screwed down. Yes, drywall screws are brittle, but they are still pretty hard to break, though it does happen, most commonly by torquing the head off. Every once in a while it's necessary to snap one off when remodeling, so it can work both ways. Not a big deal.
Angle bracing really isn't necessary, if you can anchor your benchwork to a wall. Angle braces are only to prevent lateral movement. The more points you can anchor, the less you'll need, and they don't need to be huge like in the photos above. About 12" is enough if you even need any. The point is to keep the leg vertical. Just a couple over a 24' run is more than enough.
Lumber: I use 1x4's for all my framing, and 2x4's for legs. Open frame style is really easy to build. For a 4x8 you don't even need to cut the long rails. The end rails and all the intermediate supports are cut to 46-1/2". It doesn't get much easier. I put the intermediate supports every 24". When you join two of these frames, you will end up with a double 1x4 but it isn't really that big of an expense. For decking, I use 3/4" BC plywood. I'm not a fan of OSB for decking, nor do I like thinner material.
Height and reach: One thing that people often overlook when choosing a layout height is the ability to comfortably do work under it. Personally, I find 42"to be a nice height, that's to the top of the deck, because you have 4-1/4" benchwork thickness, which leaves you 37-3/4" clear. I'm 6'-1", and I find this height comfortable, no hunching end minimal reaching overhead. So how does all that translate to working up top? You may need a small step stool at this height to get maximum reach, when working. Generally, 3' is best as a maximum, though 4' is possible. Whe you use the construction methods I've described, you'll have no problem walking on your benchwork. One thing I would try to avoid at all costs, is placing track beyond your ability to reach. Scenery is less critical, but you still have to get up there to do it, unless you create access hatches or holes.
I had to go use the "way back machine" to dig up pictures of my benchwork. Here you can see down to the concrete floor. My layout design includes a 12" raised platform in the aisles, which helps the reach situation. This is not a technique for most people, but it works great for my multi deck layout.
None of this would be possible L girder. There are sections that use a variation of the frame style. The upper deck uses a cantilever design with 2x4 posts to carry the load, and long intermediate cross supports, with simple rails along both front edges.
This is the foundation frame for an 8' diameter helix. Again, L girder wouldn't cut it here, because I still have crawl under 19-3/4" to get inside, and I need all of it.
This is an interesting section, because the supports don't go all the way to the floor, since there is a yard under there. There's a beam down the center of the yard, and the cross members of the main level rest on it. Again this design isn't something that most people would use, but it does show the versatility of frame style benchwork.
Right on! No glue and surely no drywall screws. Maybe for screwing down the top. I use grip right decking screws. For me a flat top is fine. Which is just personal preference. Using 2x4s all the way cuts down the thickness of the table top also. What is the widest area on your layout Elliot? Mine has a 13 foot section that is 4ft. Wife demanded that I leave it that way lol
Jim
