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Reply to "Building lights"

One option is to use DC to power your lights.  While there are some O-gauge operating accessories that require AC, I don't think there are many, if any, lighted buildings that require AC.

In this recycled photo from a previous OGR thread, I contrast the 100 Watt Z-1000 AC-output brick with a 90 Watt DC-output brick used for laptop charging.

ac dc brick comparison with inset

Of course your out-of-pocket for the Lionel 4045 is zero, but the compact DC brick shown can be had for less than $10 on eBay including shipping from a U.S. seller.  This one can be set to 12V, 15V, 16V, 18V, and a few other voltages.  It doesn't have 14V but perhaps there are others that do, or 12V or 15V might be suitable for your application.

90 watt DC brick wall wart less than 10 bucks shipped

If you go with DC, it could/should facilitate easier migration to LED lighting if that's in the cards.

And while I realize you have Woodland Scenics and MTH now, there seems to be a trend toward lower voltage DC lighted buildings and signs such as from Menards, Lemax, Miller, and others which seem to have settled on 4.5V DC.  If you already have, say, 12V DC on the layout it is straightforward to convert this down to 4.5V DC using 99 cent DC-to-DC voltage regulator module from eBay.  There have been many OGR threads about this technique.

 

 

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  • ac dc brick comparison with inset
  • 90 watt DC brick wall wart less than 10 bucks shipped

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