Graphite is on that list too 😏
But looking at some of the more oily substances is interesting. I recall someone loving kerosene and with a hefty dose of moderation seems intriguing. Transmission fluid too, but friction modifiers like that can vary too much for me to speculate on; I prefered manuals anyhow 
I usually use alcohol and follow with a trace wipe of wahl hair clipper oil ; but I don't clean live track. Lots of small scale folk do alcohol/wahl and their traction issues being greater out of the box (imo) intrigued me enough to try that. Though applying oil sparsely has a learning curve to keep traction normal, it's not hard and I like the result. I've also been using a Birchwood Casey gun cleaner/protectant, Sheath, on a small loop with similar results. Both penetrate and break up light rust well. I imagine kerosene's oils would too.
I really soak um pretty good once in while, making sure to get the rail foot, web and web to railhead transition/"corners" well. Then I concentrate on removing excess from the railtop and inner radius to the flange rub, but not below that.
Besides holding moisture, fresh acetone would strip any oils providing protection too. It might not be an issue if there were oils left to migrate. I.e. it cleans too well and needs follow up surface maintenance.
I never considered acetone holding water before. It made me realize I don't really recall to what extent alcohol might do this. I know it mixes and there is attraction, but don't recall what's actually happening or how fast; e.g. how atmospheric moisture vs liquid build up/ useage as fuel dry might differ. I just know oils are good protectants.
Trace debris from old wheels rusting? Steel dust is like seeding for redness spread around.
I see cleaner cars used "daily" as beneficial. But not as a replacement for cleaning by hand.
(funny, I went decades not cleaning my track but once on a table it became needed kinda often..?¿?¿?)
