The S-38 is mechanically done. I tied the main struts to the small wings. I fixed the slight length deviations by trimming the long one and adding a little chunk of brass under the slightly short one. This was a much easier solution than turning model over again, de-soldering and re-soldering the errant struts in a different position. I also added the cross wires on the tail booms and with that the model was complete. I did some more heavy cleaning. There's still some more to do before painting, but I need to get the right weather since it has to be either outside or in the garage.
Props are not glued in. That'll wait until the model is in final position on the memorial.
Finally was able to make respectable solder joints. I guess I need to do another to use my newly refined skills.
The model is very heavy (50 pounds), but quite strong. It will last a long time as long as no one drops it from seven feet in the air onto concrete. With the new mounting system I'm employing, it will not fall down.
It would be nice to keep it natural bronze, but the landing gear are going to have to be painted. So I'm painting the whole thing.
The Bowman Field Heritage Team is very happy with the outcome and they really didn't think it would happen. I wasn't sure it would either. They're planning a big deal for the memorial re-dedication, including newspapers and a presentation by me at the Louisville Filson Historical Society.
So gang, thanks for bearing with me on this diversion. I'm going to get back to the engine house and do the site improvements, fix that strip of LEDs that aren't full brightness and keep working on the machine shop. I'm also planning the next project. Could be the Rick House under construction next to the distillery or the coal mine. I also have another plastic kit on reserve at the hobby shop. It's the Airfix 1:24 scale Hawker Typhoon. I want to build that kit predominantly for the fabulous model of the Napier Saber 24 cylinder double boxer engine that powered it.
I had a successful reprint of the Fairbanks Morse cylinder block. By inverting how it was situated for printing, the highly detail upper crankcase printed perfectly. I still have to remove all the supports, but it should work out fine. You can see the bolts surrounding each hatch. Remember, this in in HO. I've finished the slicing for the O'scale version. If the HO version printed correctly, the O'scale version should be good too. It's too big to do it in one go. In fact, it will take four print sessions. Lost a couple of those microscopic handles, but the fuel filters came out perfect.
