That's good input. I did some further research on the LIDAR iPhone 12 Pro use as a 3D scanner. With the current apps available, it's not so hot, but I suspect that with that power, there will be app makers all over the world who will be developing things for it. I'm going to make a pitch to go for the 12 Pro and put the extra $300 onto my hobby budget. Normally, iPhones are not treated as my hobby expense. I'll make an exception in this case.
My new railings and the transparent 3D resin all arrived late today. I have all the stuff I need to finish this little city park except for the tank model. Since the tank can be placed at any time, it's not on the critical path. I'm leaving a spot in the landscaping for it when I get it.
I filled the curb edges, sanded them and airbrushed the sidewalks. I then masked them and then cut little mask squares that I used to define the spaces for the fence columns. I decided that since the fencing comes in 5" increments (actually it measures 4.86"), I'm going to put a column at each fence segment which eliminates having to joint one fence segment to another. I prepared the columns and painted them a limestonish color. Meanwhile I was wrestling with the printer. I'm printing one more load of columns, but I don't really need them, just to try out some ideas. I thought that my build plate had shifted out of parallel and adjusted it. I also decided to try printing without pre-coating the plate. It seems to be working.
After masking, I laid a thick brush coat of my earth colored latex and then sprinkled fine W-S earth and also laid in the gravel patch for the Sherman.
The second coat is W-S fine blended turf. This coat was put down after the latex had dried and done using wet-water, the ground cover and then dribbled Scenic Cement.
While this was all drying I attached the columns to some rolled masking tape and sprayed them a mix of Tamiya Buff with just a tad of gray. The gray came from the bottle that previously contained my concrete color which I didn't wash out. I wanted it to blend with the buff to make it a little less bright.
Just after I did this, I checked the mailbox and the railings from Rail Scale Models had arrived. Here's the unpainted rail in fret next to the column. It fits just as I wanted.
Like I did with the fence on the House, I airbrushed gloss black onto both sides of this product.
That completed all the work on the park. I also applied the suggestion by CAJohn to solve the bad screw on my new mini chop saw. The hex head hole had rounded out, and was unremovable. The suggestion was to grind a slot in it to use a straight screwdriver. I did this with a Dremel abrasive cutoff disc and did remove it. I also found that I had purchased a whole selection of M4-sized screws and nuts to attach a 3D-printed attachment for the printer and it needed some Metric hardware They were all M4 Hex, button-head screws of various lengths including the-needed 8mm. Here are the screws side-by-side. Meanwhile, I never got a response from MicroMark Customer Service. There is no direct phone number to call them other than order taking. You have to eMail them. I have the President's eMail and may contact him, even though I fixed it myself. I've been buying from them for a long, long time.
And here's the new screw installed. Saw fixed! I have a dozen of these screws so if it happens again, I know exactly what to do.
Just another reason why I benefit from posting on this never-ending story every session. I also found out why my scroll saw was behaving so badly the other day in cutting some 1/8" MDF. It was rattling and bouncing terribly. I thought about it and decided to check something. And yup! I had put on the new blade with the teeth facing upwards instead of down. Turned the blade around and problem solved.
