Thanks to all! I appreciate that you all read this stuff every day.
Exercise day so less than 2 hours to work. I wanted to install fascia boards on the roof edges. Even though the hardboard has enough cross section to look reasonable, I like how fascia boards finish it up. I'm going to be mounting gutters and the fascia adds another layer of security to hold the gutter's mounting pins. I decided to try and use the PVA cement on this application. I hope it will hold for the long haul. I was contemplating using Walther's Goo, but I don't really like messing with it. For be results you have to apply it to both pieces and let it dry. The PVA was very easy to apply and didn't make any mess. I might go back and reinforce it with some thin CA.
I brush painted the Model Tech Pennsy Green with is the same trim color I've used throughout. I could have masked and airbrushed it, but didn't want the hassle. My Top Flite Monokote Hot Air Gun finally gave up the ghost. I've had it for many years using it both to apply mylar to RC models and for general hot air gun stuff (force drying acrylic paints). I'm going to buy another one. It's funny. The price on the box from 1985 was $25. Today, you can get them for $20. That's amazing. It's not like it was USA made then. It was made in Japan. Now it would probably be made in China.
With the clerestory glued in place it was time to install the main roof pieces. I had a little gap that I needed to fill between the roof and clerestory end walls with was filled with some scrap styrene. I used Aleen's Tacky Glue to fasten the roofs to all the trusses and edges, held in place with masking tape. I did start the roofing application with the starter strips on the clerestory roof, but that's as far as I got. You'll also notice that I've marked the location of the two stacks and prepared the stacks for installation. I duplicated the roof angle on an angle gauge, and as I did with the roofs themselves, sanded the correct bevel to the bottoms of both stacks on the belt sander.
The pipe is very thick. Since they're going to simulate a metal stack, I'm going to thin the upper walls with a boring bar on the lathe down a half inch or so. It will be painted flat black inside so you won't notice the thick parts. I'm also going to scribe some circumferential grooves to simulate pipe joints, and using the 3-jaw chuck as a fixture, use it to mark three equally-spaced holes for the guy wire eye bolts. I'm going to just butt glue the stacks to the roof probably using epoxy with a CA chaser. The stacks will be painted gun metal with rust brown underneath. Selective sanding will expose the rusty surface and it should look pretty authentic. I think I'm going to use wine-bottle foil as flashing around the stack bases.
Tomorrow the roofing will commence in earnest.
