Gee, I wonder why that is? I was able to get to that page in conducting a search. Try searching on the topic title and see what happens.
I got more plank material today and got back to work on the mountain. First I built another little L-Girder that's going to bridge that v-shaped gap that I left in the mountain area. I'm not even sure why I did it that way. It was to increase access to the back of the layout at that location, I think. But, I want the mountain to extend out to the natural inner edge AND I want an area that would be suitable for a coal mine if I go ahead with that project. To that end, I'm also going to add an O-96 switch and some O-88 Ross curves to bring a connection to the stub spur that off the back passing track. That track would pass under the coal tipple. Unfortunately, I don't have the real estate in that area for any multiple tipple tracks...at least I don't think so. I'm at a disadvantage since RR Track is not available for Mac and all of my planning was done on that software using Windows. I've asked Russ Becker to have some sympathy, but he is disinclined to spend the time to do native OS coding. I could run Parallels and run Windows on the Mac since it has an Intel processor, but that involves buying a native copy of Windows which means more $$$. I would only want Windows for two programs, the aforementioned RR Track, and CorelDraw.
Just as a primer since the thread that I described all this L-Girder stuff is apparently not easy to access any longer, let me quickly describe making a girder.
After cutting the web (1 X 4) to length, I measured and cut the flange (1 X 2) and clamped it to the web using quick clamps. Work the clamping from one end to the other to draw out any warp that may exist. Regardless of the warp, when you bring them together this way the girder ends up very straight.
Using a speed bit which drills clearance, pilot and countersink at the same time, drill the flange into the web. Undo the clamps and apply Titebond wood glue, and then screw the flange back together in the pre-drilled (and aligned) holes. The screws are only there to clamp the girder together while the glue sets. Once it's cured, you can remove the screws. They're no longer needed and furthermore, they will invariably be right in a place you want to drive another screw. Murphy's Law.
I try to use SPAX star-drive (Torx) screws whenever possible. These are the finest wood screws I've ever used and are available at The Home Depot (not Lowe's).
The shank portion is a smaller diameter than the thread portion which theoretically eliminates the need for clearance holes to ensure a good clamp. I specifically said, "theoretically" because I like to drill pilot holes if only to make it much easier to hold screws while I'm driving them with the DeWalt while looking up under the layout. Incidentally, each box has it's own fresh Torx driver specifically for SPAX screws. I started using them in Germany (they were a German brand), but they are now being manufactured here too.
Here's the girder in its place, but not fastened. I'm going to hold off on that until the mountain framing is almost complete for that access I spoke about.
I'll run joists over top to attach risers to which I'll attach the rest of the stuff. Now onto the mountain.
Using my big piece of cardboard, I drew the contours for the mid-former. I decided to have one more contour former to fill out the mountain before adding various vertical and horizontal sticks to which I'll attach all those cardboard strips.
I cut out spaces for the trains to pass (sort of mini-portals) and then cut out the template with a utility knife. I traced it to the other piece of 4' X 8' Masonite I bought (glad I bought two), and manhandled it onto my layout where there are no buildings so I could cut the profile with the saber saw.
I put it back in place and messed around with track clearances to make sure that my biggest car will fit. At first it didn't and I had to remove the piece two more times before I got it with enough clearance where I won't have to worry.
I stopped working on this mid-piece since I hadn't fastened the big fascia pieces to the layout. I didn't want to make final connections of the mid-former without the two big pieces being fixed in place.
The beauty of L-Girder is how easy it is to modify and attach stuff too. Since everything is so open you have access below for all sorts of stuff, not withstanding adding mountains or running new wiring. You don't have to drill new holes in large timbers like you would in an egg crate frame made out of 2 X 4s. Using some small 1 X 2 x 5" blocks I quickly made the pieces necessary to hold the fascia in place. Having that corner post tying the two sides together plus holding down the bottom edge to the layout makes it surprisingly rigid.
I still have to add some reinforcement to the mid-former and then attach it to the joist it's sitting on. I will have to come up with a scheme to attach it vertically to the corner post since it's coming in at a 45 degree angle. I'll find a way. I just did. A couple of blocks coming in from either side would act as a clamp grabbing the mid-piece. I would use glue to hold the blocks to the back piece since I can no longer get behind to drive screws forwards.
Here's a wider angle view.
Tomorrow, I add that reinforcement to the mid-piece and then start figuring out how to build in all those intermediate supports before adding the cardboard strips.
