Hudson... you're now required to read all 44 pages. There's a lot more stuff on this thread than just the 2nd Bernheim build.
Mark... I'm glad you agree. That puts my mind at ease.
Thanks Goshawk!
Almost got the shed roof done today. Built the frame on the plans. As I noted before, my main workbench is covered with Homasote. It takes and holds T-pins very well. I hammer them in with a small jeweler's hammer. I usually use long-nose pliers to pull them out. Doing this ensure that at least this first part is flat and square.
After cobbling together the frame I needed to double check the fit with the building and, more importantly, that the period box car fits underneath. It fits nicely and that's without the resin pedestals underneath.
While this was going on, I was pouring resin into the tiny mold to make the feet. It's take about 1/2 hour for the resin to cure so I was able to make four of them today.
I measured and cut the rafters I used my Chopper II with a metal rule as a length guide and the Chopper miter gauge set at a slight angle that duplicates the end--of-rafter angles. I clipped the first end and then moved the piece up the gauge until it hit the 4 inch mark on the rule. I needed 31 rafters.
To fit the rafters (0.040 X .125") I employed my new Rusty Stumps joist jig. It's a laser cut device that spaces scale 2 X 10 lumber on 16" scale centers. This was a perfect application for it. I first put in a couple rafters at the extremes to support the jig. Notice that I boxed the front and rear main members to stiffen the structure and give more glue surface for the rafters. This is deceptive since the rear is a bit higher than the front to set the roof pitch. As a result, unless I notched each rafter (which I didn't), they're really not setting square on the front and rear frames. When the solvent melts the plastic, it does settle down a bit and makes a decent joint.
The width of the frame was not quite a multiple of 16" centers, so I laid in rafters from the left side up to the mid-point. And then set the jigs on the right side and again work towards the middle. This way, the two middle rafters are a bit closer together, but it looks symmetrical and designed. The glue surface is very narrow, but it will be very stone once the flat roof goes one. I'm scratching the styrene surface with a wire brush tool to give it some wood grain and disguise any glue smudges. The modification I make definitely made it a simpler job. Before I had to create all 31 rafter assemblies before installing them.
The last thing I did was measure the flat roof pieces of Evergreen Standing Seam Roofing. The seams run long ways so I had to join two pieces so their slots would run cross piece. Once this joint fully dries (tomorrow) I lay in those tiny strips that actually are the "standing" parts of this simulated metal roofing. Then the roof will go onto the frame and the painting will begin. I should have all the feet cast by Thursday. There was a flaw in my silicone mold, where a bubble formed in the cavity and kept silicone from properly filling the whole cavity. As a result, there is a lump in one part of the finished casting. Instead of spending the time and trouble to re-mold the job, I just take a small router head on the Dremel and remove the excess.
