Mike H Mottler posted:About a Control Panel ...
My L-shaped O-gauge layout is placed in an L-shaped room, which is an addition to the rear of the house. Aisle space around the perimeter is limited, so I didn't have room for a slant-mounted control panel which would consume most of the aisle space. Instead, I installed two pull-out sliding shelves placed near the angle of the "L." See attached pix.One slide-out panel is for some control buttons and all the O22 switch controllers -- like you, I prefer the iconic look and feel of them. Each switch controller is numbered, and there are corresponding "ID flags" at each switch (some of which are semi-hidden from view from the control panel). With an apology to Old McDonald's Farm, I used yellow flex-plastic livestock ear tags as the "flags." They are big enough to be seen from nearly 20 feet away.
The other pull-out shelf holds Lionel and MTH "bricks" -- a PM-1 for track power and TMCC gear, and two MTH Z1000 "bricks" for accessories, building lighting, and switches. The 110v power to everything on the layout comes from three different wall outlets with power cords going to power strips mounted on the undersides of the five layout platforms. Each outlet has a remote control gizmo with a hand-held controller device - bought from a local "Big Box" store. When I push its three buttons, the AC power to all three circuits is turned on/off. In effect, the gizmo is a Master Power Switch.
Like many other hobbyists, I mounted the pushbutton controls for the operating accessories on the perimeter fascia board of the layout; each button is mounted near its accessory. I use Lionel #90 control buttons for that purpose if possible.
I used a different method for track power to the upper level; I installed a PC power supply (90 watts) for DC voltage as track power for three short trolley lines. That DC power is routed through three voltage controllers mounted in a small black box with a small knob for each; handy for individual speed control of each trolley. I installed four 110v power strips underneath the upper platform - which provides power plug-ins for 36 DEPT 56 porcelain lighted buildings from their NORTH POLE VILLAGE collection. I used the voltage reduction strips made by Dept 56 to provide 3v to the lamps in most buildings to avoid running 110v wires everywhere. So far, so good; no overload problems.
The advice offered by other OGR FORUM members makes practical sense. One final comment ... consistently apply a color code to all wiring, dress-up the wires neatly to avoid the look of "an explosion in a spaghetti factory, and (like meticulous computer or military electricians) attach wiring numbers to each wire for identification later.
Carry on ...
Mike Mottler LCCA 12394
mottlerm@gmail.com
Great insight, Mike! I like the livestock tags. Good advice on the wiring, it can easily slip into the ratnest category if you’re not diligent.
