Andre,
With original Flyer, the sky is the limit for what you can do. If you like switching, I would recommend converting to DC for track power. A simple full wave bridge rectifier from Radio Shack (used to cost about $1.79) in the engine and another on your transformer along with a DPDT toggle and you will improve operation tremendously.
If you’ve caught the fever, the next step is to convert your switching engines to can motors like the ones from SNS. Doug Peck also sell another brand, but I don’t recall the name. My 342DC operates close to what a can motor will do, without any conversion
I agree with you, I do not like the Flyer style knuckle couplers. They are terrible for switching ops… you have to hump the car at about 20mph to get them to close. An unloaded gondola will never close, it’s too light. I use a mix of Flyer link and Kadee #5s with my own magnetic uncoupler for the #5s. My afore mentioned 342DC has a #5 on the front and a link on the tender.
I will also second Tom’s suggestion for track. SHS or the new MTH flex is fantastic. Fox Valley also makes code 138 flex. FV also has a #5 turnout for Hi-rail/Flyer. I find I mix American Models .148” flex and #4 turnouts with the .137" without a problem (I have no trouble running scale wheels across the joints, either).
As for scenery, I’m sure you have seen Brooks Stover’s layouts. His first was AM .148” rail and turnouts with modified Flyer engines and rolling stock.
There is a ton of Flyer to be had and a lot is ready for repaint and details as far as you want to push it.
My 2¢,
Tom Stoltz
in Maine
