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Reply to "Stripping, Detailing, & Repainting Project - GP38-2 (Updated 4/18/17)"

Originally Posted by modeltrainsparts:

OK, i'll chime in here with my two cents worth. To strip or not to strip? On 95% of what i paint i do not strip it beforehand. Why? Because the factory paint is usually sound and stable.

i do, however remove all lettering and numbers as suggested above. i use 1200, 2400, or 3000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (available at NAPA or other auto parts stores) and sometimes 3M green scrubbers. Start with the finest and work to a more coarse grit as needed so not to damage the underlying paint any more than necessary.

Primer - yes, but don't use automotive or household primers found in rattle cans. Assuming your not using an airbrush please use a hobby primer in a rattle can (Testors - about $7 or Tamiya - about $10). The reason for this the pigments are more finely ground and the solvents and drying agents are formulated to the pigments and have less chance of damaging model work; this does a better job of preserving detail.

 

I agree that most auto and home primers are NOT good for models. They are made to fill in and thus not good for details.

Dupli-color sealer primer is not like this. It is a sealer not a filler. I have some expensive primers including Tamiya. Side by side I still go with the Dupli-color sealer. I pay $3 for 12 oz Dupli-color.....it could be $15 a can and I'd still pick it over Tamiya (which is near $15 for the small can now)  There is no ONE perfect method. I think it's best people find what works for them......that is the best method for them.

 

All the above have two coats of Dupli-color sealer on them. Detail is still not obscured....

 

rigp9cab

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