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Reply to "Grade on train layout"

  The big issues with fast transitions to a grade are cowcatchers or drawbars shorting on the center rail, and couplers slipping apart or binding when there is a hard angle.

If you have to, I've found a traction cheat that works well. Two sided tape from widow winter insulation kits on one outer rail.

  It is clear, like Scotch tape, so isn't easily seen. I detack the topside adhesive with my fingers till it can't lift off the rail, then run double what I can without it. It gives plain drivers a real grip. A strip lasts a long time (6 months to a few years). If it loses grip, or a hole wears (more likely), a new strip goes on in about two minutes, sometimes right over the old one, sometimes just a short "repair", etc.

Going down, you can pull a 45° or better just fine.  Just don't try to climb it 

The sister grade is 5.2%, but here is 4.6%, 2.5°, ½" per.ft..  Even this little one can pull 5 " heavy" with the tape. Actually it is a PW, plastic PRR red stripe, metal framed Scout motor shoehorned into it. I'm brain-farting on the exact number, but not a big powerhouse even with the cast shell for added traction. The gondola is loaded with metal hardware & heavy junk (like the solid armature poking out the top), and the autos are cast metal too. Both weightings far exceed any "normal" freight car, so I know though the two end cars are 'lite', it averages out to about 5 heavy cars. 6 or 7 before she would even grunt some or slip on the tape; which I bet you can't tell is there

IMG_20180113_201021IMG_20180113_201032IMG_20180113_203105IMG_20180113_203026

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