That is an alternative, but you have to make sure that the track section you are connecting from is receiving full power, otherwise you are just transferring low/bad/inconsistent power from one section to another. Since it is the terminal section, chances are it is getting full power unless the barrel connection is loose, so that's a viable alternative.
These are the .110 female connectors that connect to the tabs underneath the Fastrack and are available on the internet from many sources. Get some 16-20 gauge stranded copper wire (you can use stranded pairs or separate red/black); cut one or two lengths (depending on whether you got stranded or separate wire) to the proper length to reach from the terminal section to a straight section about 180 degrees across; strip the wire ends about 3/16"; insert each end into the connectors and squeeze down with pliers; connect to the tabs on the terminal section and then connect to the tabs on the other section making sure you observe correct polarity, i.e., pos to pos and neg to neg. You may need to slightly pry the tabs away from the plastic with a small flat-bladed screwdriver in order to get the connectors to slide over them smoothly, but don't overdo it or you'll snap the tab off.
One other tip I like with Fastrack is to use simple 3/4" wide black binder clips on the underside of the track sections at each end to connect each section to the next. It helps keep the connections tight and prevents the sections from loosening up over time.
