The sticker on the side of the motor would have "WILSON OF CLEVELAND" if it were still on the motor. The windings do not look burned but they heat up more on the inside near the iron core so looks may be deceiving. Sniff it, can you smell burn?
Shawn_Chronister posted:You can see its dc by the plastic axle between the wheel and the wipers on each side picking up ground and power separately.
That is a sign that it runs on two rails not that it is DC. AC powered motors can run on two rails, but not in this case.
The magnets in these were not very strong to begin with and trying to run on AC weakened them some and pulling the armature from the motor case weakened them a little more. However, if the windings are good it will still run on DC. I think Adriatic pointed out if you have a volt ohm meter you should read the same reading between all three commutator pads reading two pads at a time and that with a wire clipped on the shaft you should have no continuity to any of the pads. If that is the case it should run on DC. If you have a short to the armature frame it will have to be rewound. Do the brushes have good spring pressure against the commutator? These three pole motors are VERY easy to rewind since the windings do not overlap one another. As long as the wire is not burned in two after carefully removing the windings you can see any burned insulation varnish take some steelwool and burnish the burned area then recoat with some polyurethane paint. Motor varnish is better but I'm guessing you won't have any. If you want to contact me my email is on my members page I will send you my phone number and can talk you through the process of rewinding. It's a piece -o-cake. I did not read all the posts. Do you have a soldering iron or gun ? j
