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Reply to "Help needed please. Factory new RMT Beep Diesel."

@Chills posted:

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...3#154730473923183693

So I was going to start a new discussion here but saw this.  Was there any resolution?  I had a chance to purchase two new in the box RMT GP beeps at an auction this week for about $45 each and jumped right on it.  I have a bunch of o27 and o31 track and am planning a couple of christmas layouts for my grandkids.  Thought these would be perfect on the tight curves.  I have a small test oval set up that I was using to test so “new to me” post war lionel crossing lights etc. with a lionel 41 army switcher pulling 4 cars.  So I put one of the beeps on there, It ran at half the speed of the slow, under powered old 41.  I was shocked.  Tried forward and reverse at full throttle on a small 50 lionel transformer.  So then I took the cars off… still just as slow by itself.  I then got the other one out of the box and the same thing.  Now I need to wonder if they are junk from the factory or if there is something I can do to get them to run?  Any ideas would be GREAT.  Thanks.

BEEPs need TLC right out of the box, especially the ones with the older boards that use audio output chips (?!) to power the motors and lights, which, it seems, you have. One way you can tell right away if you have one of these versions is that the handrails will be chromed, not painted. I have four of these. The first thing I did with each of mine was remove the bottom plate and properly lubricate key components. To remove the plate you will first have to remove the screws that secure the two collector rollers and the ground wire. Then you can remove the eight bottom screws that secure the plate. Regrease the worm and gear drives for both axles SPARINGLY with Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) grease. I use Yamalube, P/N ACC-MOLDM-GS-10. Also apply a single drop of 85W140 gear oil with a needle oiler to each wheel bearing and the bottom bearing of each motor. When reassembling the bottom plate, make sure the flat side of all four wheel bearings is perfectly aligned with the top edge of the plastic frame before placing the bottom plate and screwing it back in place in the reverse order of what I described for removing the plate. One you have the gearbox buttoned back up, apply a small amount of silicone plumber's grease to the top bearing of each motor. Work the grease down against the motor shaft into the bearing GENTLY with a straight pin. With time and running it will work itself farther down but, due to its viscosity, the grease won't get onto the commutator.

I believe if you do this for your BEEPs, they will do this for you at only 6V on the track (you'll need a third one):

I hope this works for you!

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