Hancock52 posted:BTW, I’ve had the smoke units apart to fix noisy fan motors and noticed when I tried to get the original parts that these units have 6 Ohm resistors. Spare AC regulators therefor went on the shopping list.
I'd first do the Lionel recommended replacement of the resistors for 8 ohm resistors. The 6 ohm resistors were taking out too many regulator modules. When the regulator shorts, you get 18V track power on a six ohm resistor. By rapid calculation, that's around 50+ watts being dissipated in the tiny smoke unit, normal is around 5-7 watts. Needless to say, for the short time the smoke unit lives, you get SPECTACULAR smoke, and then you need to not only replace the regulator module, but also the smoke PCB. I've had to fix a few of these, and I was on hand to see one go up in person, it was pretty amazing! 
It also takes several years for the stink of burned fiberglass to fade, no matter how well you clean it!
Yes, when I got the new smoke unit PCB, I replaced the 6 ohm resistor with an 8 ohm one!
FWIW, I have the early Legacy 10-wheeler, their smoke control was very primitive, it's strictly run off the chuff switch. If the switch is closed, the fan is off, and if the switch is open, the fan runs. That's whether it's moving or not. Of course, this is not all that satisfactory. A number of early Legacy locomotives operate in a similar manner
So, I did my first Legacy Super-Chuffer installation. The conversion was surprisingly easy, I just replaced the old fan control PCB with the Super-Chuffer. Turns out that all the wires needed to go to the Super-Chuffer were right in the area, so the wiring was pretty easy. After I took these pictures, I went back and added an LED headlight with Rule-17 lighting control, I was initially not going to do that, but I figured... why not?
Take this out...
Wire this in.
