No problem installing or mating the Ross switches with the Atlas track or switches. Here are some examples using plastic rail joiners and also the regular Atlas joiners. When using the latter, I cut off about 1/8” from one end of the joiner with the cut off wheel because the exposed Ross switch rails are short. But the joiners fit just perfectly of the Ross rails.
My concern is that none the DZ machines have worked as I would expect – at least not yet. I test every Atlas and Ross switch before installing them, and so far none of the over 30 Atlas switches I have used so far has malfunctioned.
But not a single one of the eight Ross switches I have used up to now (all curved, BTW) has worked as I think they should. The switches themselves (without the DZ machines) are fine – they operate freely. But the machine does not throw all the way consistently even when not on the switch! That is, instead of traveling fully (from one end of the crescent shaped slot to the other) they are shy about 1/16 to 1/8 inch. I have tried 14v and 20v, and the result is the same. I have also added two or three drops of fine oil as has been recommended, but that has not helped so far.
As far as my favorite way of connecting the wires to the rails, for the full story look at this thread:"Screw It!" – but you can get the idea with these three pictures:
After trying several #0 sheet metal screws, (Button Socket Head, Slotted Pan Head, and Phillips Pan Head) I have settled on the #0 x 1/4" Pan Head Phillips Sheet Metal Screw, Black Oxide.
Thank you for looking.
Patrick. Am I excited yet? You got that right! When I finally ran a train last week, even though it was only over 40 or 50 feet of track, I was beyond myself. Thanks!
Alex
