Tom Tee posted:Couple of housekeeping tips:
Each time we reset a commode we use a new SS braided line with a loop to eliminate stress on the fitting. Usually a 20+" line. Avoid a neat looking short line, no margin for bowl movement. When starting the nut, carefully be centering the hose on the seat as you tighten to ensure a correct seal.
Do not over tighten the bowl nut otherwise you may have a problem with the float. On standard commodes it does not hurt to replace the float valve. Always check finished flange height.
Extra thick wax ring with a horn and 5/16" (not 1/4") flange bolts make the job complete.
Sound advice. Nothing worse though then having the PVC floor ring break where the bolts go through, especially when there isn't much left of the floor to attach a brass ring, most often with a masonry floor that the hole is too big or deteriorated.
