I’m by far an expert on this. Not sure as to how the lettering was applied in the above video. The Micro Sol method would work for decals applied without a clear coat. Not sure how well it will work on something pad printed or cleared over.
I model the Rutland. Lionel recently ran a 3 pack of hoppers. I wanted to add a few more. I ended up buying a Paashe Air Eraser that came with a jar of aluminum oxide grit. I masked so only one number was exposed. It removed it easily and just sort of dulled the underlying black. Not sure if you would get the same result with the yellow. A coat of clear gloss and just add decals as recommended and finished up some clear flat and weathering. This method may work on your RS 3. I would mask off just around the lettering. Maybe buff the edge with some super fine wet sandpaper when the lettering is removed. Try not to sand any edges. Hit it with some gloss and decal. If you go this route. It’s about a $65.00 dollar investment. Use about 30 lbs. of pressure and just go easy. Best to practice on a sacrificial car. Not having done what your trying to do I can’t say what your result will be. It worked for me but it was a much smaller area and the car was weathered afterwards.
There’s plenty of solvents that can remove the lettering. But I believe you will be damaging the paint underneath. I found on one wood reefer I did. Matching yellow isn’t easy.
