Adriatic posted:What exactly does the tool do? Support the bottom coupler because it drops too easy when the tab gets hit by the slot side while railing? Or to simply shift it into alignment because the car spacing is so close.
I'm sorry but the pro vs con of the units are even spelled out by this thread. IR issues, couplings, and the track/IR alignments. Others too. From leaning and sticking there, to doors that wouldn't open, others that wouldn't shut. I.e. there were an awful lot of folks that simply didn't care for it's peculiarities. It doesn't mean it is awul; just that some folk didn't want to be dependent on sticks or doing things differently than from other locos.
My old hobby was air cooled VWs. Not for everyone; they require more regular maintance and oil changes. Americans didn't really like those VW "POSs"... but I found them to be the most reliable vehicles I ever owned... always starting when too cold for the EFI to even go rich/ retard timing enough to start.
It worked for me because I was willing to put in that bit of extra effort others were not. I can't fault folks for not wanting to do these little things I saw as "nothing". Now, how many times have you lashed the valves on your car this centrury to make sure you get to work?
Same thing. I see it as "nothing" you see it as a pita
It's one of the all time neatest model trains made, but it's not for the light hearted and takes a little more care and effort to really enjoy it. Be glad your abilities come easy
I think you stated it perfectly. Made room last night to bring the 2nd of my Acela adventures to life. Dummy on #1 lost catenary action. Will pull the shell. I suspect I will need to replace the Catenary PCB with the upgraded one they released after rollout back in the day. Ran 1 hour last night with no IR loss.
