RoyBoy posted:Before making a major decision about a different control system, you could try operating it on 60Hz and see if that is the problem. If it is, you can figure out what else to do. You do not have to "run a 60Hz inverter continuously," only long enough to determine if that is the problem or not. If 50Hz is not the problem you can look elsewhere.
Since no one here (so far) can tell you definitively what the problem is, you will have to do some more investigation. It's better to make some tests that point you in the right direction and eliminate phantoms than it is to just speculate and make knee jerk decisions based on someone else's guesses and speculation.
Well, yes. I figured it would be obvious that testing, or someone that has dealt with it before chiming in would be the best bet. As I said I'm just throwing out an idea of something to test. The OP mentioned having access to an inverter so it is doable to check things. Also worth noting, you probably don't actually need a huge power supply for a test. Between the engine and TMCC base plus some for loss you're only going to draw maybe 100 wats from the inverter likely half that. So hooking it to a car battery is overkill. You could probably get by with 8 AA (actually 9 is probably better) batteries for a short test, or the 12V rail on a computer power supply.
I'd hoped someone that has actually delt with 50Hz would chime in to let us know if we're even on the right track at all. It's just as likely, if not more so that a board is bad.
As a side, I am assuming that reseting the engine as described above would reset any momentum or stall settings, is that correct? Additionally there could be a motor/mechanical issue that is binding up the drive train causing it to need full throttle to overcome the binding, though that wouldn't affect other functions if the engine is stopped.
